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March 26, 2014 at 8:08 am #56368
Peggy, when you get it, in the front of the book, it has a list of his other books. His instructions are the easiest to follow that I have found. Be sure and look around o e-bay for cheaper prices. Mahlon
March 26, 2014 at 8:13 am #56369Okie dokie! I just found another one that Steve has…
I’ll be considering that one too!
Here’s a nice one by John Plewes for $30
March 26, 2014 at 8:23 am #56370Peggy, you might try Amazon they have a good selection of Steves books as well as others http://www.amazon.com/Chime-Clock-Repair-Steven-Conover/dp/0962476668. Mahlon
March 26, 2014 at 8:30 am #56371Thanks Brother! I’ll go look at them!
Here’s the page link to all of Steven’s books on Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Steven-G.-Conover/e/B001K8ZC6I/ref=ntt_athr_dp_pel_pop_1 That 20 clock book is $28 ❗ ❗I so happen to have an Amazon account where I sell my Devotional Book I wrote. If you want to check it out, here it is
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPYSRE2 You can access the print copy there also. There’s a link to get to the print copy.
March 26, 2014 at 5:35 pm #56372Hi all!
Mahlon, it turns out this is 89E, but the pic you showed me matches it, so I can go by the pic to put the gears in the right place.
Here’s more pics of the entire movement before re-assembly. I figure on needing to purchase at least the time spring. It was the one wound tight which kept the clock from working (of course! :roll:)
I probably won’t re-assemble until I can get the mainspring and winder in about a week.
See ya’ll later! 😆
March 26, 2014 at 7:23 pm #56373Peggy, are you from Muldrow? We are in Enid. I probably would not be to quick to order the main spring. It is probably not what was keeping it from running. I would clean it first reassemble and try to put it in beat. Usually they will run with set springs, but won’t run the full 7 days. I try not to put new springs in unless they are completely set. I have had to many of the new springs(made in India) break, after being wound two or three times. Mahlon
March 26, 2014 at 8:52 pm #56374Hi Mahlon! Yup! I’m north of Muldrow closer to the Liberty area, north of Roland.
Thanks for the “heads-up”. I was thinking the mainspring may be okay, just super sticky. It looks pretty much like the strike spring which did operate good. The lady told me she remembered as a kid, she’d get to wind the clock every day, so maybe the continual winding, and not letting the spring work, may have caused it to get to where it wouldn’t run. I know you can’t over-wind, but it’s like winding it too much and not allowing it to unwind. Who knows.
I know where Enid is! It’s over towards Tulsa from Okie City
March 26, 2014 at 9:20 pm #56375Peggy here is another excellent book by Conover or should say a couple of them.
i have all of Conovers books as they are excellent. Also Peggy you might want to invest in a couple of these. I like them better than the round ones because they are easier to get on.
http://timesavers.com/i-8946795-flat-mainspring-clamp-2-piece-set.html
March 27, 2014 at 4:00 am #56376Good Morning Bernie!
I most definitely plan on getting the books and the flat c-clamps. Good idea!
March 27, 2014 at 11:23 am #56377Nice job so far Peggy, just a word of caution on the Dremmel, watch the escape wheel teeth, they are quite delicate and I would seriously consider using a fine abrasive paper to clean them up in the future.
Looking forward to the next installmentMarch 27, 2014 at 11:35 am #56378Hey There, Paul!
I didn’t have to do anything with the escape wheel. It’s in nice shape! I know the teeth are fragile. I had used a sand paper on the other parts at first, but it didn’t seem to do much, the Dremmel I used a very fine sanding wheel, and also a brush wheel and did it ever so lightly.
March 27, 2014 at 12:09 pm #56379hey Peggy, lookin good, you have come a long way already!
How do the pivots and bushings look? any wear? one of the more important things to address in my opinion
it is very possible the mainspring would be o.k., it is very seldom (percentage wise) that I have found them to be bad in these American movements, unless maybe in your case where they may be rusty, you will have to remove them to be able to tell, difficult to get rusty ones back into good shape and with the cost of a pair of them while the movement is apart it is always worth putting in new if there is any question at all. @peggy332014 wrote:
It was the one wound tight which kept the clock from working
most likely a series of other things adding up to not running, pivots, bushings, out of beat, gunk, mainspring sticky ect…ect….when you first observed the movement did the escape wheel have any power to it?
Have a great day, William
March 27, 2014 at 12:23 pm #56380Hi William!
For the most part the pivots are okay. I’ve tried to fine sand and smooth them as I don’t have access to the bushing tool or lathe to smooth them. Some of the pivots are blackish in color, some were a little rusty, but they are not sloppy in the holes. Some of the bushings that have been put in there from whoever repaired the clock years ago.. are starting to show some side wear. I’m not in a hurry to put it back together at this point. She said I could practice with it anyway. I’m just trying to figure the combination to put them back together. Mahlon gave me a pic for the configuration, but some of the holes don’t fit right according to the pic, and I’m having to work in the mechanisms and catches too. But, I’m having fun with it. I will continue with working it out and make it come together like it should be. I’m going to buy some of those books that Mahlon suggested.. next week, so it’s coming along slowly.
March 27, 2014 at 12:51 pm #56381Hey Peggy, I think it was Paul who posted some time ago about using a block of wood, pinvise, and a fine file or buff stick and burnisher to do pivot polishing, very inexpensive, quick and great experience to have. to do bushings as Bob videos shows is also a inexpensive way to go, that is how I first did them, I also know some of the guys here with alot of experience prefer to do the bushings by hand (Im too lazy). If your pivots are rough then it will only cause more wear and trouble down the road. I just did a small desk clock that stopped intermittently, problem was the escape wheel and lever (pin pallet escapement) had worn bushings and the guard pin was hitting the roller when they wiggled closer together, there is no other way around getting it to run right without putting in new bushings, Here is a photo, only one I have, of one of my first Seth Thomas clocks I did, it has 8 1/4 stamped on the lower right leg, other than that I am not sure of the model #, maybe this will helpWilliam
March 27, 2014 at 2:10 pm #56382Hi William!
That clock does look like what I’ve got! Can you get me a closer-up view? Maybe you can use your “Paint” program and be able to get it larger. How I do it is drag a box around the main view I’m needing, copy to clip board, then click the reverse until page is blank, then paste the pic back onto the page, and drag the sides to the pic. that way it explodes the view without distorting the pixels that the normal zooming would do. Then click and save the pic. Or, with the pic on the clipboard, just open a new Paint page, drag sides to fit and save.
I’m sort of limited to get any bushing repairs or tools, but I’m not in a big hurry on getting it finished. I’m sure Mike has some fine files that are small enough and it may work for it. I do know there is one pivot hole starting to go out of round. I don’t know if a quick filing would make it too big. I’ll take a closer look at them and see what I can do on it.
I haven’t opened the mainsprings yet since I’m short on desk room at the moment. I live in a very small travel trailer, and so I’m just trying to get a learning curve started here to give me something to work on.
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