Home › Forums › General Discussion Forum › JLC 218 entry pallet stone
- This topic is empty.
-
AuthorPosts
-
August 28, 2014 at 2:24 pm #58577
Jan, good work!
I lose these tiny brass pins whenever I try to re-fit them, they fly out of the tweezers on a regular basis and it seems not to matter what tweezers I use either.
Because of this I had to start making my own pins, this is done very simply in a small block of hard wood, you just file up a tapered slot in it, put a large brass taper pin or piece of brass wire into a pin chuck and then grind it down with a coarse buff stick. I think I will try and post some pics up tomorrow so you can see what I mean.
takes me around a minute to produce a pin of the correct size.
Paul.August 28, 2014 at 6:24 pm #58578Great job Jan. Hope the cold or whatever is over soon. Not pleasant feeling so down.
August 28, 2014 at 7:52 pm #58579Hope you’re feeling better soon too Jan.
Runny nose and assuming the watch repair position (head down with nose in the ‘faucet on’ position) just don’t go well together. If we could only work on watches while laying on our backs.
Congrats on the re-pinning!Bob
August 28, 2014 at 10:00 pm #58580Thanks guys, after reading your comments I am feeling better already . Paul I look forward to see how you fabricate those tiny, tiny pins.
August 29, 2014 at 1:35 am #58581Jan,
I have found positioning extremely tiny parts can be an issue even with Dumont #5 tweezers. When I need to place a tiny wristwatch balance staff into an inverted punch in a staking set, or position some other extremely small part I now stick the part into a shaped piece of Rodico. Once the part is in the proper hole I can hold it in position with the tweezers and remove the Rodico.
davidOctober 9, 2014 at 8:00 am #58582Well I had been putting this aside for a while due to the fact that I had one problem after the other with this movement .
Today I assembled the balance with the staff that I bought and had everything back together in the movement.
It does not work however, the balance does not move and binds somewhere.
First I investigated the pivots once more but they seemed all right, also the jewel holes where ok and the pivots fit nicely, at least as far as I can tell
Further investigation revealed that the guard pin is touching the roller table and binds the balance. It seems to be more on one side of the roller jewel than on the other side.I don’t know if you can see it in the picture.
What would be the advice to cure this? Shortening the guard pin is an obvious solution, but before doing such an irreversible thing I wanted to get a second opinionJan
October 9, 2014 at 11:43 am #58583Hi Jan,
Difficult to tell from the photo what’s going on. It does appear that the lever is tilted down a bit. This might not be a problem unless the fit between the pallet arbor pivots and their respective pivot holes a is too sloppy which could allow the finger to fall forward closing the finger/roller distance. When you say “it appears to be more on one side of the roller jewel than the other” are you referring to the finger, safety roller slot or location where jamming occurs? I didn’t quite understand what you meant. Also is the finger dead center of the horn slot and not angled off to one side?
One more question:
By jamming do you mean that the lever is all the way up against the banking pin but the guard pin is still up tight against the safety roller? If this is the case then it’s possible that you need to adjust a banking pin out a little for a bit more run to banking. It’s also quite possible that the pallet stones are in need of adjustment. We can check this out if you wish.
Please let me know,
Adios for now Jan,
BobOctober 10, 2014 at 2:50 am #58584Hi Bob,
you were right in observing that the lever was tilted down a bit. I investigated a little further based on that and found out that the pallet staff’s pinion was not seated properly in the pallet cock. Which caused the pallet lever to lean over a bit and jam the roller table.
I corrected this and the escapement finally works. However, the amplitude is rather low. I will have to look into this now.
Thanks for your help, I should have inspected everything a little deeper before crying for helpJan
October 10, 2014 at 7:49 am #58585Sometimes Jan another set of eyes is a good thing.
October 11, 2014 at 7:59 am #58586Great Jan,
It’s sure nice when something turns out to be an easy fix. Doesn’t happen often enough with me so send some of that luck over here please.
Let us know how the motion works out too if you have a chance.Adios for now,
BobOctober 11, 2014 at 10:48 pm #58587Bob, to send you my kind of luck is easy. You just start assembling it wrong and then correct it
Thanks for the extra eyes though .
The amplitude is still bad, I started by ordering a new mainspring because the old one was a little bit set. Don’t think that this is the whole problem, but could be part of it.Jan
October 12, 2014 at 2:35 am #58588Perseverance pays off jan, nice job..
Low amplitude can be a bugger to solve but it involves going from the mainspring, all the way through the train and testing every gear, I’m stating the obvious but…
Let’s see if the new MS helps to solve the issue then we can eliminate that. How is the MS barrel for concentricity?October 12, 2014 at 11:31 pm #58589Hey Chris, thanks for your interrest. The mainspring barrel looks good. I am waiting for the mainspring to arrive and then we will take it from there. I am not going to give up (yet?).
-
AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.