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Hey Bernie, I was wondering where you were….hope everything is good with you and yours…
I made the next part out of order, just me thinking again 🙄 It is the great wheel for the fusee along with the fusee ratchet, click and spring. I decided to make the ratchet wheel first, that way I could turn the boss for it and fit the ratchet hole to the boss, might not make sense at this time, thats juts me…No cutter making here, I happened to have one on hand, a multi tooth 60 degree cutter. In photo # 2 notice the little pip I left when I faced the piece, helped in lining up the cutter to center. This too is offset 6 degrees for that positive locking action a ratchet needs, then set the dividing head to 30 divisions and WHALLA. Later I make the click and click spring, for now this is drilled and reamed to 7/16″.
Hey Nelson, hope all is well.
Here I will just show some photos of the great wheel, fusee ratchet, click and click spring. In the book he went with a brass clickspring, I decided to make mine out of steel giving it my own little twist, really…instead of the thin edge of the spring contacting the click I put a twist in the steel before hardening and tempering so that the larger flat edge would be making contact, most likely over thinking it all 🙄 Notice the square nose tool bit, relief was ground on both sides and underneath, this worked good as I could cut all surfaces without changing the cutter. Easing up to the diameter for the ratchet wheel boss worked good for me, checking the fit often with light cuts.
Drill and ream a proper size hole, scribe the lines to the steel, cut out by hand and file to a nice shape. In the 3rd picture you might wonder what I am up to and why in the world take a picture of a horizontal belt sander….well…I had a idea 😯 . Since I dont have a surface grinder…yet…and I needed to reduce the thickness of this piece a bit. I used a piece of wood, drilled a flat bottom hole with a forstner bit just small enough to have to press in the click. This will hold the click flat and secure while sanding the thickness. Works great…
Looking for some approval of the thickness reduction technique I sought out my audience for their input. Now these 2 coonhounds of mine, Jed and EllyMay, are pretty good pups. They will sit in the shop and watch my every move, telling jokes to each other about how goofy humans are….each gave me 2 wags of a tail for approval….actually they were just wanting a treat….again… 🙄
Jed approves the smell!!!!
EllyMay approves the taste!!!!
That sounds good Jim, it will cost you double
O.K. now we move on to making the fusee barrel. A 2 1/4″diameter chunk of C360 will do. First drilling and reaming a hole to the proper size for a good fit to O-1 tool steel the proper diameter, face off and drill centers. Using red high strength thread locker notice the machinist clamp on the arbor. This was a nice aid for pre-measureing and using as a stop while quickly slipping it all together. Too much time spent finding the right spot and you can end up with it locked in the wrong area so being able to work quickly with this thread locking stuff is critical.
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