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I must have been a bit excited to keep moving along since I cannot find any photos of making the barrel caps. Here I have a quick set up on the mill of the mainspring barrel. This setup was only for indexing the holes for the barrel cap screws. Simply a threaded rod very close to the size of the arbor holes…and sandwich it all together. They are size o-80, flat head, steel, straight slot screws, that I bought, polished and blued for the caps.
Once the barrel caps were drilled and threaded and everything was looking good it was time to put in the mainspring hook. The process here is to drill and thread a hole in the center of the barrel, screw in a mild steel flat head screw from the inside, apply high strength loctite or similar, cut off the excess, carefully hammer it over, then file down to form a relief on the trailing edge.
Hey Brian, thanks, always nice to hear from you
. Well I must have been movin along since I have missed some photo taking. Time for the mainspring barrel arbor, made to size according to the instructions. I had mounted the arbor in the dividing head with a 2 degree tilt for a tapered winding square then did some final sizing. Once I was happy about that I used the spin indexer to locate, drill and tap a hole for a screw that would be the arbor hook. I had decided to use O-1 tool steel instead of a regular screw, I guess I figured it would be much stronger. Simply put a taper on some round stock and threaded the end.
I used red loctite to lock the screw in place then double and triple checked 🙄 the direction I needed to grind off the trailing edge of the hook….Really…I didnt want to make it backwards…and trust me I can 🙄 A final touch on the sharp corners and it appears that it will work….WHALLA.
O.K. I do have a plan…I think 😯 …the next step is to make a ratchet and click for the mainspring barrel. A fly cutter would do the job just fine BUT I had to put the multi tooth cutter process into action. Using O-1 tool steel I chopped off a chunk of 1″ round stock. I found this horizontal bandsaw several years ago from a shop that had upgraded, paid a fair price and I hafta tell yah…it has saved ALOT of arm work with the hacksaw. Its dirty and grimmey and the paint is chipping off BUT it cuts faster than I do
most likely because I am getting old and fat and my hair is falling out….
Using a sacrificial chuck in the 12″ Craftsman lathe I faced, drilled, bored a nice little cutter blank. Just to mention about drilling a piece of metal….using a center bit to get the center started then a small drill bit (I use a 1/8″) following that with a drill bit one size smaller than the reamer size works really good. When reaming use a very slow speed and cutting fluid.
And here we have the blank. In the larger lathe I used the compound on the cross slide to get a specific angle…Now I wont be able to tell you how I figured all that out BUT there was some type of thinking involved….with this particular angle put on the blank all I had to do was dish it out to the radius I wanted…hopefully…
Now the curve or radius does not have to be exact, I think it is more of a appearance thing. I chucked up the blank while on its arbor into the Schaublin 70 which gave me some good control. Unlocking the top-slide from its axis allowed me to swing the cutter in a arch, by setting the cutter a particular distance away from the top-slide center point cuts different radius’s. and WHALLA a almost finished multi toothed ratchet wheel cutter. Oh, and a bit of polishing
Mounted on the mill in a spin index I thought I would make it a 4 tooth cutter then changed my mind and decided to make it 8 teeth, why I am not sure but I think it may have been because of the angles and material that would be left, anyway it worked out and I like the 8 tooth cutter. Nothing fancy about cutting or gashing these teeth out, just want to make sure you get past the area you want to use. Though the slitting saw is offset approximately 6-10 degrees to give the cutter tooth a radial rake to aid in chip formation, these are not form relieved or have any relief put into them so the radial rake gives it a scooping type action.
Wrapped in iron binding wire I used the torch to heat it up to a nice cherry red and quenched in oil to harden it, I did not temper it. Now we have a nice cutter in stock….In the background lay the C360 brass round stock completely unaware that this cutter is silently eyeing it up and planning its attack.
Hey gerene hope all is well with you, thanks for the response. Here we are setting up in the mill to cut the ratchet wheel teeth with our new cutter. Set up with a approximate 6 degree undercut so the click wont slide up and out of mesh with it 16 divisions are figured into the dividing head. The last photo shows a design I am putting into some of the parts. I was also setting up in the lathe to cut the square hole BUT it wasnt working how I would have liked so after parting it off I hand filed the square hole to size. I think using the lathe would work great for making the square if the setup was right. I now have a idea I got from you-tube for quickly making a square broach…I think his name is Oxtool, he has some good stuff on there, anyway using the cutter grinder makes it quick and easy, I will put something up next time I do a square hole and show off the little cutter grinder I recently acquired.
Just parting off the ratchet in the lathe, I find that a bit higher speed and a slow feed into the part works good for brass when parting. Last photo is the paper click design glued onto some scrap C360 using the piercing saw to cut out by hand. The actual layout for this is to put the ratchet wheel on the arbor, slide a piece of paper under it, place the pivot screw (which I had already made) thru the paper pivot area and mark out the tip of the click, the rest is drawn out to make it look nice AND clear the other teeth of the ratchet wheel, Placement of this click, the size and weight of it does not require a click spring, it drops down into the ratchet by gravity and if is designed correctly it should lock, pull or slide itself into the ratchet for a nice positive lock.
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