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Seeing as this was my first time taking apart a keyless, I took my time, enjoyed the luxury of a new experience, had a corona and smoked a bunch of cigs, all in all, a fantastic Saturday afternoon
For my grand finale, I decided to work on the hood, to begin filing/grinding away the burrs from whomever ran it through their vice jaws, or whatEVER. I don’t want to have my hand torn to shreds or worse still, it looks baad. So I first grind away the burrs, really, this is some hard stuff, then I used a file and 180 grit emery, now I have to work up to 2000 grit to achieve a nice shine..
After I disassembled, I tried to search for more info on the amount of roller bearing that are inside my model of chuck.. NOW, after searching for ages BEFORE i started, NOW I find this excellent thread by a chap who also posted his results in a nice format..
Here is the link for anyone else who decides to undertake this task, I pray to the ancient gods of Rome that his, and my humble offerings will also help save you wasted hours of unfruitful searching..
<span style=”color: #0000BF”>Albrecht Disassembly</span>
And here’s a little something to calm you while working 😆 Calming
As I progress I’ll post more….
BERNIE : You have the patience of a saint my brother, anyone who can fiddle with those clock chimes, wires, bushings etc is overflowing with it
TOM: Thank you sir. I think you’re asking me about what camera I’m using? I use my ipod5, the camera is fantastic, small, convenient, always there etc, I never use my “proper” cams any more, too much of a pain to set them up..
Thanks Daryn…
Just a quick update… I spent the better part of today filing away burrs, sanding, buffing and polishing.. Now the parts are ready for their final bath tomorrow.. This is some tough stuff to work with, not sure if it’s case hardened or all hardened, I would go with the latter..
Anyway, I got the results i wanted and as compared to what it looked like originally, an improvement
A common practice when a chuck is dirty, or stuck, or both, is to spray a little WD40 down the throat and around the jaws..
Whereas it may temporarily fix the problem, it can and does lead to wear. WD40 and its ilk are not really lubricants, they’re utility sprays, for cleaning, so they, in fact, break down lubricants, wash it away, leaving the tell tale sign of discolored dry patches, especially where there is rubbing type friction.
In the photo, the red arrows show conclusively that some form of spray has been applied while the chuck has been in the jaws up position, obviously so the liquid doesn’t immediately flow out and onto the hands.. It has washed contaminants into the sliding area of the jaws, and in time will cause significant problems. These Albrecht chucks are about $250 -$400 a pop. A replacement jaw kit is $75-$125, not cheap, so it pays to look after them.
The white arrow shows where the utility spray has washed away the lubricant from the longitudinal jaw sliders, the wash mark is plain to see. This result has combined the forced in flushed contaminants with the washed away lubricant mixed with the utility spray, the sliding pressure over time has created a hard build up because it’s trapped in this spot..
This mess hardens up like JB weld, which effects the accuracy of the chuck. So your expensive precision chuck is now out of alignment due particle build up and wear..Just something to keep in mind the next time you reach for the blue and white spray can 😆
The story continues…
I finished giving the parts another little bath to remove the dust and debris from the aggressive cleaning/buffing process. So now it’s time to see if it works 😆
Here they are all lined up, including the nice shiny balls, after being inspected, I tried all the parts together before the final assembly just to make sure nothing was sticking or binding, or that I didn’t forget to remove a burr..
You’ll notice that on the inside of the hood, the finish is dull. Apparently this zone is not supposed to shine, much to my dismay
The surface, if shiny from wear, must be dulled again with a 320 grit emery paper, just enough to score it.There is surprisingly little info in regard to what must or must not be lubricated. But what I did find agrees on one thing, that the acme thread of the spindle MUST NOT BE lubricated, it must be clean and dry in order to tighten under friction load against the drill bit.
So I took it upon myself to use my head and lubricate, lightly, what I think must be greased..
Here I have taken the liberty to apply a thin layer of Lithium grease (clear) to what i consider to be the metal on metal friction points, that serve no purpose other than support and alignment of the other parts.
Here I’ve brushed some grease into a channel that I really don’t know the purpose of, the only thing I can think of is that it’s either for a seal, o-ring, that is missing, or that it should be filled with grease to act as a seal?? I chose the grease as I don’t really know for sure and an o-ring doesn’t seem practical in this application..
Also around the rotating zones..
Here I’m liberally greasing the ball bearing race and the stop lip that the spindle body rotates against.
After the greasing, I’ve inserted the spindle body into the shell, I give it a few turns to distribute the grease and wipe away any excess..
We must now insert the left hand thread spindle. It must be clean and dry, NO GREASE NOR OIL on these threads..
Screw it in about half way, it can always be adjusted afterwards if needed.
At this point we can now CAREFULLY install the ball bearings. These things are slippy and tend to shoot away, I used my wooden tipped tweezers.
As denoted by the red arrow, this area of the spindle body acts as a race for the bearing to ride on, so I greased this part prior to installing the spindle body into the shell.
Time to install the jaw guide.. Again, there are no formal instructions of the required lube point of these chucks. So I have placed grease on the parts that mate together and that showed signs of oxidation upon removal..
I’m applying some dabs of grease to the rear of the jaw guide because this area also acts as a bearing race and is subject to high speed rotational forces and shock, so it needs it
I’ll add that as you may have noticed, the guts of this chuck were completely bereft of any lubrication when I took it apart, it was full of anti-lube 😆 so it’s a wonder that more damage wasn’t realized..
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