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September 20, 2014 at 1:43 pm #49230
A few months ago I picked up an Albrecht chuck for a fairly decent price, but it was in bad shape, it had been badly stored and as usual, run into the vice possibly, there are some sharp burrs on the hood, not good for a keyless chuck, Oww my hands 😮
So never having taken one of these apart before I searched the internet and as usual found everything I didn’t need or that kinda applied but not 100%
So here’s the chuck, it came with an MT3 taper – JT6, which was the reason I got it, my mill uses the MT3 taper, Puurfekt..
You can see the pitting & staining from the rust I wire brushed away prior to disassembly..September 20, 2014 at 1:44 pm #59470
A closer shot, look at all that nice rust holding that mandrel in placeSeptember 20, 2014 at 1:47 pm #59471
The first try with a strap wrench achieved zero results. Again, there are many methods to be found on the internet, but none of them used heat, which for a rusted tight part, is what is needed. Excessive use of a pipe wrench can damage, bend, mar the hood.September 20, 2014 at 1:52 pm #59472
So its time to summon die flamensturmtruppen 😆
I used a plumbing type propane torch on its lowest setting, we only want the outer casing to heat up a mil in order to release the grip… Just so that it’s too hot to touch should do.September 20, 2014 at 1:54 pm #59473
And VIOLA off like a Sunday church suit 😆
Look at the gunk inside the threads, no wonder it was sticky to turn..September 20, 2014 at 2:06 pm #59474
Here she be, kinda nasty but serviceable…September 20, 2014 at 2:11 pm #59475
The jaws are matched up to their slots. If not at time of manufacture, then during operation as they will become comfortable or even embedded into their little slots and do not wish to change
So you must pick a none contacting point and scribe a little mating mark. I’ve chosen roman numerals, cause I like em 😆
A 1 on the spindle and a 1 on the tip of the jaw..September 20, 2014 at 2:20 pm #59476
The first jaw bone is removed and I say, someone has been a very naughty boy and has been spraying WD40 or one of its nasty cousins down the spout, definitely not oil because of the wear and gummy residue that is so often associated but vehemently defended to the death, with spray fix all, contamination 😆September 20, 2014 at 2:24 pm #59477
Look at that nice well used jaw guide, just begging for my, or anyone’s, attention. It want’s to do a good job for us, it really does, but how can it when it feels bad and looks like 20 clicks of rough highway It’s German you know.. I hear they make the best stuff 🙄September 20, 2014 at 2:33 pm #59478
CORRECTION: I mistakenly used the word Mandrel when should have used arbor..
Anyhow.. Now for the dangerous part, removing the spindle body wherein are contained the tiny ball bearings that provide these chucks with their performance abilities and good name in the bitniss..
I tried to find an Albrecht manual or tech info for this chuck, but as usual, there is so much information, most of it mierda, that I didn’t have the 17 days needed to wade through my seven million hits, most of which were ebay, amazon or wikifrigginpedia 😆
I did find some erroneous info that said a similar chuck, but not exactly the same as mine, contained 25 balls.. Lets see
Gently now, easy there girl…September 20, 2014 at 2:47 pm #59479
Sorry about the previous blurred pic, my hands were dirty and i was trying to shoot with one hand while keeping the balls in place, focus, capture the best shot, didn’t want to get my pod dirty.. etc 😆
Then I forgot to shoot the actual balls 🙄 So I counted 24 roller balls that came out of my unit, is this right? Did I lose one or more? I just don’t know, but I have 24. If anyone has any info on the amount of ball bearings in this chuck, I would appreciate a wink I suppose I’ll see when it goes back together, but as I understand, the bearing race isn’t packed solid with balls??
I want to remove the arbor, I don’t have to but I want to, it is surely rusted in place and I would like to clean it up and add a drop of lube in case i want to change it at a later date. I’ve seen some youtubers and forum gurus say that you can punch the arbor out byt fully opening the jaws then running a punch down the throat. For this chuck, that is false, it has to be disassembled first, unless you have a proper fork wedge, but you can put a lot of lateral force on the unit by driving that wedge in there.
So ok, the easy way first, a little tap should resonate what our success or failure percentage will be..
I don’t have a warm and fuzzy just by looking at the rust on there and I don’t want to put too much force on that lip, but here goes nothing..September 20, 2014 at 2:50 pm #59480bernie weishaplParticipant
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Looking good Chris. You are more patient than I am. Looking forward to seeing where you go with it.September 20, 2014 at 2:57 pm #59481
As I feared, sounds like hitting a bell.. Solid but with good resonance.
I try heat again but nothing. Again there are loads of “ideas” on the internet, many drastic like cutting the arbor half off, drilling it, driving wedges between the space, turning with a pipe wrench while hydraulic pressing it out 😆
Fine if you have all that stuff handy..
After I allow it to cool down, I opt for my trusty bearing pullers, set it up so the center pushing screw is not touching the internal threads of the spindle body.. tighten it down very snug, then I apply a little heat around the outer spindle body. I give it a little tap on the side and POP, of she comes..September 20, 2014 at 3:07 pm #59482tmac1956Participant
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My friend – such great work – and the photos… WOW. Tell me your secrets. Also, I have to get one of the gear pullers. What are you using?
TomSeptember 20, 2014 at 3:10 pm #59483
Stamped, conveniently, and in a very civilized manner, on two places, are the types of fixture needed, in this case, the male end, or business end of the stick is MT3, while the female end needed is J6 which I think must be for Jacobs 6 taper? DAVID..
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