Re-pivot tiny pivot HHEELLPP!!

[david pierce]

Bob,
I never thought of using a staking set as a sensative drill press. Thank you for stepping into this thread. I think I learned more from this post than any of the others so far. In my view this is what a forum should be all about; an exchange of different perspectives and ideas. I personally view mistakes and criticism as an extremely important part of the learning process so if there is a different approach please put it out there. It is up to each individual student, myself included, to decided which solution is feasible according to their knowledge background, skill level and tools that are available to them.
david

[Bob Tascione]

David,
Thanks and glad you liked the staking set idea!
I agree. I also learn a great deal from the members here. What’s interesting is that it’s usually from those just starting out that I learn the most from. Out of necessity (lack of tooling) some of the most creative, ingenious solutions I’ve ever seen get posted up here by these members! When I see some of these posts I can only ask myself “why didn’t I ever think of that?”. Sadly for me the answer is “because their creativity hasn’t been stifled like mine has by becoming set in their ways and they’re probably a lot smarter than me!”. I do appreciate everyone up here!
Oh, if you haven’t seen Randys watch yet check it out. http://www.clockrepairtips.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=560
Nice watch!
Also David I have a few questions I wanted to ask you about the ‘Sincere’ lathe and attachments before pushing the buy button. Not sure if you’re still on those strange hours and didn’t want to call and wake you. You gonna be around today or tonight? Is there a good time to call? I’ll also email you about this since you probably check your emails more often than the forum.

Adios for now and thanks again Jim and everyone for starting and making this an interesting thread. Especially to Paul for keeping the ball rolling!
ps..looks like we’ve put the pressure on Jim to post his results!

Bob

[arutha]

Great stuff, what a neat idea, using the satking set for drilling, that is something I will try!

David, thank you for not taking my posts the wrong way, sometimes when stuff is written in text it is not always apparent how it is meant to be read, I am glad you understood it for how it was meant to come across.

As you say Bob, there are some great ideas floating around on this forum and the creativity also comes from people working with what they have as its not always within our means to buy some of these expensive tools that may be needed. There is nothing more frustrating than being held up on a job when you dont have the right tool for the job, if you are trying to earn a living from it it is even worse. I dont know about other people on this forum but my best ideas seem to come when I stop thinking about the problem?

[tmac1956]

All:

Apparently, the capped solution is a good one. These were once easily available and helped those with the concentricity problem who didn’t have the tools needed to make pivots.

When this item sells, the link might go away. However, the item number will still work. Just search on this.

201549608311

Later,
Tom

[dave booth]

Here is another approach that you may find easier to accomplish.

Chuck a piece of brass stock and turn a taper to fit your tailstock. Part it off, leaving enough of the parallel bar stock to reverse it in your collet, and face it off.
After facing, “catch” the center with your sharpest graver, and make a tiny dimple to start your drill bit.
Place the taper in your tailstock, and chuck your #80 drill bit in a collet in the headstock.
Lock the push rod in the tailstock, and using a fairly high speed on the headstock, drill a hole about six times the diameter of the bit in the brass, by sliding the tailstock on the ways. A little spot of kerosene (paraffin for you Brits) won’t hurt any. Back the bit out and wipe it off often, to keep any swarf from clogging in the grooves.
WITHOUT REMOVING THE POST FROM THE TAILSTOCK< remove the entire tailstock assembly from the lathe and clean out the hole, and degrease it with naptha, followed by an alcohol rinse. Now. "glue" the shank of the bit into the hole you have drilled, using either crazy glue or blue Loctite. You now have a drill chuck that you KNOW is centered on the headstock.
Using the “sliding tailstock” method, drill the arbor for your pivot wire, and proceed to re-pivot as usual. BE CAREFUL ABOUT Rotational speed and drill bit feed! Too high a speed with too little feed will work harden the face of the bore hole, and too slow a speed and too heavy a feed will guarantee a seized and broken bit. Again, Kerosene is your friend, and be careful to back the bit out frequently. What you are doing is referred to in machinist circles as “deep drilling”. When you decide to remove the bit from the tailstock, a little heat will soften the glue sufficiently that the shank of the bit can be removed from your taper. That taper can be reused, but only by re-drilling it with a larger bit, because reinserting the #80 bit is almost certain to be off center. (I try to make a rule that when I use a blank a second or third time, the drill I insert in it is at least twice the diameter of the previous bit that I used, and I drill the new hole with the highest headstock speed and a very slow feed, to help it overcome any eccentricity of the pilot hole.

[digitaltripper]

In case you are all wondering, here is a link to a post I made regarding what happened with this repivot:

http://clockrepairtips.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=720&p=3970&hilit=repivot#p3955

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