New Mill

[tmac1956]

David:

I need to mill down the t-bolts that came with the mounting kit from Enco to fit the table slots. I am just planing on putting them in my vise and using parallels to get them up and out of the way so I won’t hit the vise. Any advise on the speed settings and the cut depths? I’ve got six or so that I need to take some metal off of. The mill came with two that fit nicely. I have 3/8″ dia. 4 flute end mill cutter that should work OK.

Thanks!
Tom

[david pierce]

Tom,
The parts in the hold down sets are generally case hardened and will probably tear up your end mill cutter. I would use a file. A few strokes on each side of the nuts should get them to fit into the slots.
david.

[david pierce]

Achipo,
It is a good precise cast steel machine that will do what it is supposed to do. When parts are clamped to the bed, it will not warp when the clamps are tightened. This is not the case with other small machines using extruded (usually aluminum) beds. If a milling bed warps, any precision that was originally in the machine is gone. Some small mills warp so badly that after clamping a part, the bed can be rocked back and forth by hand. As long as this machine is not pushed beyond what it was designed for, it will produce beautiful results. This mill should be able to machine any watch or clock parts or any other parts in that size range.
david

[tmac1956]

David:

I’m ready to start cutting, but I’m not sure about taking out the tapered shank to install my end mill holder. According to the manual, I should insert the spindle sleeve, loosen the draw bar, and tap the tapered shank with a plastic hammer until it breaks free. However, I’ve done that and it doesn’t break free. I don’t want to damage the thing by banging on it too hard, so I’m wondering if the manual is missing some information. I tried tech support, but they’re closed until Monday.

Thanks!
Tom

[tmac1956]

Daivd:

I figured it out. It’s amazing what a dead blow hammer and a piece of hard wood will do. It was just a little tight.

Later,
Tom

[david pierce]

Tom,
To remove a holder or collet from the spindle, loosen the drawbar back a few turns but do not remove it. Then tap the hex end of the drawbar with a BRASS hammer which will knock the holder in a downward motion. Then hold the end mill holder with one hand and turn the drawbar out with the other hand. Do not wack the holder with side blows in order to remove it. Only use downward blows.
david

[tmac1956]

david:

I’ll keep that in mind. I used a piece of hard wood against the chuck, but lightly taped it as vertical as possible.

Thanks!
Tom

[tmac1956]

David:

Does the big drill chuck that came installed in the machine come out of the R8 holder? If so, what is the best way to remove it and does it hold the R8 collets?

Thanks!
Tom

[david pierce]

Tom,
Most of the drill chucks I delt with used a #33 Jacobs Taper and once attached to the R-8 holder, remained there forever. The holder and chuck will come out of the spindle as a unit. Do not try to seperate them. The R-8 collets look like giant WW collets and work in a similar fashion. They are usually purchased in sets (Enco) and are not very expensive. The good news with the end mill holders is you only need a couple of the smaller sizes as the larger sizes would be used in a Bridgeport size machine.
david

[tmac1956]

@david pierce wrote:

Tom,
Most of the drill chucks I delt with used a #33 Jacobs Taper and once attached to the R-8 holder, remained there forever. The holder and chuck will come out of the spindle as a unit. Do not try to seperate them. The R-8 collets look like giant WW collets and work in a similar fashion. They are usually purchased in sets (Enco) and are not very expensive. The good news with the end mill holders is you only need a couple of the smaller sizes as the larger sizes would be used in a Bridgeport size machine.
david

david:

I have a set of 13 Chinese collets that I got from Enco. Now I understand how they mount. I also bought the 0-1/4″ dia. Jacobs chuck from them. So… it looks ike I need some sort of R8 threaded holder for that one. Other than that, it looks like I’m ready to start.

I have some aluminum bar stock set up in the vise supported by some parallels and I’m about to cut some T-bolts for my 3-way cross slide. After that, my next project is to take some material off the bottom of my QC tool holders. When I mount the QC Post into my three way and load a 1/4″ cutter, the tip is a little too high for my lathe even when I have the holder all the way down and the cutter is at the bottom. It won’t require removing very much aluminum to get it where it needs to be.

Well, let the fun begin… If I survive this, I might post a few picks. We can use them as a negative example.

Thanks!
Tom

[tmac1956]

David:

What type of R8 holder do I need for the 0-1/4″ Jacobs chuck? The hole in the back does not appear to be threaded.

Thanks!
Tom

[david pierce]

Tom,
The chuck should have a Jacobs taper probably #33 or #1 but you must find out from the model number of the chuck.
david

[tmac1956]

David:

I sent an email to Enco with their model number asking about it. They are really great about responding.

Thanks!
Tom

P.s. I picked up a box of key stock from our local Haorbor Freight to use in doing the slotted plates. Thanks for the info…

[tmac1956]

@tmac1956 wrote:

@david pierce wrote:

Tom,
Most of the drill chucks I delt with used a #33 Jacobs Taper and once attached to the R-8 holder, remained there forever. The holder and chuck will come out of the spindle as a unit. Do not try to seperate them. The R-8 collets look like giant WW collets and work in a similar fashion. They are usually purchased in sets (Enco) and are not very expensive. The good news with the end mill holders is you only need a couple of the smaller sizes as the larger sizes would be used in a Bridgeport size machine.
david

david:

I have a set of 13 Chinese collets that I got from Enco. Now I understand how they mount. I also bought the 0-1/4″ dia. Jacobs chuck from them. So… it looks ike I need some sort of R8 threaded holder for that one. Other than that, it looks like I’m ready to start.

I have some aluminum bar stock set up in the vise supported by some parallels and I’m about to cut some T-bolts for my 3-way cross slide. After that, my next project is to take some material off the bottom of my QC tool holders. When I mount the QC Post into my three way and load a 1/4″ cutter, the tip is a little too high for my lathe even when I have the holder all the way down and the cutter is at the bottom. It won’t require removing very much aluminum to get it where it needs to be.

Well, let the fun begin… If I survive this, I might post a few picks. We can use them as a negative example.

Thanks!
Tom

UPDATE…

I finished the T-slots… not great but they fit!

[tmac1956]

@david pierce wrote:

Tom,
The chuck should have a Jacobs taper probably #33 or #1 but you must find out from the model number of the chuck.
david

David:

Here’s the taper that fits my Jacobs chuck.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=4839857&PMAKA=240-2729

They tell me its a friction fit. Based upon this, I guess one just drives the taper into the chuck wih a brass or copper hammer. Is this correct?

Thanks!
Tom

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