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April 1, 2014 at 5:07 am #55195
David, not the commutator, the brushes
Because the brushes were uneven, I re shaped them to the commutator radius.. I only buffed the commutator.Sent from an idevice
April 1, 2014 at 1:32 pm #55196Sin problema Bob,
lots of these old motors around and still in use on our lathes & soon, they will be antiques, If this will help the owners to make them run more efficiently and last longer…. Mission accomplished
April 1, 2014 at 1:56 pm #55197With regards to putting some sort of filter in there I think it may be a case of trial and error. You need to make sure it can suck in enough air to keep cool and i wonder how much some “hoover bag” will restrict that? The other problem of course is that these bags are designed to be thrown away after use as the “pores” get blocked quite quickly.
just some thoughts.
Paul.April 1, 2014 at 2:22 pm #55198This is true Paul, I was actually typing this while having breakie at the beach. As you know, this is the time of year that many Scandinavians are enjoying the sea, sun & sand or 3 S’s, maybe this is why vacuum cleaner bag popped into the bowl of porridge that was my brain at that particular time, this is my excuse and I’m sticking to it 😆
I’ve just had to install a vent in my kitchen, new law for gas ranges, so we can’t end it all and accidentally take the block out with us The vent they put in has a fine mesh filter, steel, it’s quite thin and serviceable, more like the sponge filter you see in the rear of heaters, but metal, maybe I could cut one up? 💡
April 1, 2014 at 2:37 pm #55199That sounds like a better idea, I have seen those metal mesh types of filter on other things and they have a coat of oil or fine grease on them to help catch the dust. The other option is to buy the chamber thingy Michael Jackson used to sleep in and run the motor in that
Paul.April 1, 2014 at 2:48 pm #55200😆 Paul aren’t you usually going to bed at this time, what’s happening, it’s normally me who is the 4am kinda guy 😆
April 1, 2014 at 4:00 pm #55201I am not well, I have a chest infection and cant sleep
April 1, 2014 at 4:11 pm #55202Chris, I think you are a lot like a friend of mine here. He’s a retired clock maker from Santa Fe rail road hear in the states. His shop is like an operating room at the hospital. He makes me go through his contamination booth before I can come in He came over one time to look at a clock case I was restoring. Ever since then, he just ask me to send him a pic.(what he does not know is that I turn off my anti viral before I send it) 😈 Mahlon
April 1, 2014 at 4:18 pm #55203Wow! Talk about clean freak, still thats nothing compared to what you have to go through to get into Williams shop, the first stage is spending 3 months in quarantine, once you have the all clear you then have to have a shower in that anti radiation fluid. You are then rolled in a sticky goo to make sure every last loose hair and dead skin flake is removed. You can then just jump into a sterile suit with feet attached, don you space helmet and in you go.
April 2, 2014 at 6:26 am #55204I always knew there was some good rational thought behind wearing speedos to work. It is now perfectly clear. And all this time I thought it was to show off his muscles.
April 2, 2014 at 11:01 am #55205😆 😯 😆
April 2, 2014 at 6:33 pm #55206Hey bro, you are doing a real good job on this armature. I also have a motor to do and surly I will follow your post. How did you get it so clean? Lathe, sanding, etc. Your brush seems to fit right in there and ready for work. Real nice, Ed.
April 3, 2014 at 7:09 am #55207Great stuff Ed, I hope this helps you out buddy, motors are nice to work on, especially these little turds 😆 I was hoping for roller bearings on this one because there is a wonderful sense of satisfaction when it runs smooth and quiet with brand new ceramic bearings.. Maybe I’ll convert it??
In the above post I think I mentioned what I used for cleaning, but basically, a soft copper brush, manual, and a brass dremmel brush. I wipe stator and rotor down with alcohol, which evaporates. I use naphtha on a small brush to clean the wiring as it doesn’t melt the varnish, DO NOT use alcohol on the wiring harness.
The brass commutator is more difficult as they are always glazed from the brushes. For this I use the finest grit cloth to remove the debris, then finish it with 5000g, then I buff it with a leather buff stick, all by hand. My Lorch isn’t big enough for this, possibly the Marshall would take it, but this is its motor 😆April 16, 2014 at 10:18 am #55208Hey Chris; sorry for the longevity of my reply. Great knowledge and when I am able to do any rebuilds I will surly post and or ask. I think I may have some more ideas to post along with yours. I’m not trying to teach and or mentor. Just learn. How did others get their knowledge : (Through others before them, who have proven their theory.) I see, Our eye’s and ears stay open towards other’s ideas and proven theory’s. Hey bro keep posting as you do a great job of it Ed…..
May 9, 2014 at 8:17 pm #55209HOORAY, at last, I finished the motor and yesterday I made the first test, amazingly, this little guy is very silent, even when running at full steam.
You’ll also note that this motor has exactly the same thing stamped on it as Paul has stamped on his foot… British MadeI possibly went overkill with insulating the main lead BUT 120v can wake you up, whereas 240v can put you to sleep, permanently 😆
I made a little video which I’ll try to post on the tube. Those sintered bearings are nice and smooth and after a gentle break in period, running at low speed for a few minutes, it wasn’t even warm, so happily, mission accomplished and now I can start using my Marshall lathe..
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