Home › Forums › General Discussion Forum › Help with Gabriel Alarm Clock
- This topic is empty.
-
AuthorPosts
-
June 26, 2012 at 2:02 pm #51952
Not sure which way it slipped Bob, but maybe if I had secured it before hand it might not have broken, so lesson learned. I’m going to go searching for the paint can opener or some other small pry bar in my husbands garage. In the meantime, I opened the corner stand pins and remove most of the “in-nerds”. 🙄 …
so do you all think I still need to get those post off to finish the job..guess it will be hard to put back together or maybe not..
June 26, 2012 at 3:34 pm #51953So I found a lever..a wrench…and i was able to pull the alarm time set knob out..but the knob remains intact. The case has gotten bent now with all the prying…
The only remaining pcs in the case are the post for the time set and the corner posts and one gear that does not seem to be removable.
June 26, 2012 at 4:33 pm #51954Hi Barkerclaudia,
You definitely earn an A+ for determination!
I should have mentioned to you in our phone conversation earlier today to stop if things started flexing. Levers are tricky as they can deliver much more force than you may be aware of at the time. Pushing straight down with one finger (pushing forward may result in slipping) will be all that is needed if it’s going to come off. Anymore than that…well, surprise! Not a big problem though. The plate can be straightened out. Also the mainspring on the outside of the plate that broke is possibly just a T end small clock or large watch spring with one side of the T ground off so that’s easy to get too. As you mentioned on the phone though, this is a practice movement for you. When a lever doesn’t work then there are a couple of things you can try that almost always works. One is to apply heat (small flame) to the brass knob which will then expand, making it easier to pry off. Another one that never lets me down is soaking in penetrating oil (automatic transmission fluid) for several hours or longer if necessary.Almost there!
BobJune 26, 2012 at 5:08 pm #51955I tried the heat…i will try it again and then the oil…will let you know if it ever comes off!
June 27, 2012 at 9:15 am #51956So my husband put the post in a vise and carefully pulled the knob off…and whoola!! no square, no slot…just a post is at the end of that knob…and the rest of the post does not seem to want to come off…so I think I will try to clean it as is and reassemble it.
Do I use Bob’s solution (99% alcohol, oriec acid and ammonia)? or what…guess I’ll go back and watch the video again…the broken main spring has a hole at the end…do I need to replace the spring or can I just drill a hole and use the old one???? lol
And has anyone noticed my picture taking is improving???!! 😆<span style=”color: #FF0000″>THIS THREAD CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE</span>
June 27, 2012 at 12:29 pm #51957The pictures are great
You can cut a new hole but you must soften the end of the spring first by heating it to a cherry red and then letting it cool slowly, It will then be soft enough for you to punch a new hole in it. Just try and heat the end inch and a half or so of the the spring. It will just mean it might loose a little running time as you have a slightly shorter spring. Well done for getting this far, it sure looks to me like that clock was not designed to be serviced but thrown away once it broke. Just shows you what is possible with a little determination.June 28, 2012 at 10:12 am #51958Hi Barkerclaudia,
I got your email asking about where a new spring could be found and wanted to post the info up here.
I’m sorry. When you mentioned in an earlier post that the pry bar slipped and broke the spring I was under the impression the small spring on the “outside” of the clock plate was the one that broke since it could be easily damaged by the slipping pry bar and I just assumed that the part that locks into the plate was the part that broke off. That’s why I suggested a T end spring. Is this the spring or is it one of the springs “between” the plates?You’ll need to take some measurements to be sure but does this look like the spring (this is a common Lux spring)? Does it have a loop end like the one shown in the pic in the link below?
Here’s the link: http://www.clock-keys.com/CART/images/14201.JPG
If so, then the sping shown can be ordered if the dimensions are the same as your spring. Should be 5/16″ (wide)x .010″ (thick) x 30″(long)You’ll need to measure the thickness with a micrometer or caliber. The length can be measured by wrapping a string around all the coils and then measuring the string. Add the length of the broken part to the overall length.
Here’s the page to order if this is the one.
http://www.timesavers.com/catalogmain2.asp?ProductID=14215If this isn’t the spring then you can check with a supplier like Timesavers by using the dimensions
that you came up with. They will also need to know the type of spring that it is ie: loop end, hole at both ends, etc.
If you need some help with identifying the spring please post a pic of it up here.Hope this helps,
BobJune 28, 2012 at 11:40 am #51959Thanks Bob, but after I tried to put the hole in the old spring (and I didn’t wait until it had cooled enough and it broke a second time) I tried it one more time after i emailed you and I was successful!! My clock (if I ever get it together and it works) will just need to be wound a little more often. How do you feel about 3 in one Oil for the clocks?
June 28, 2012 at 2:00 pm #519603 in 1 is a good oil for bike chains and garden shears but not great for clocks. Its the thickness of the oil that is the problem, if you think of a mixing bowl full of water and you put a spoon into it and stir it, its easy, now fill the bowl with flour and eggs and stir it, not so easy right? Works the same way with clock pivots in pivot holes. The wrong oil can be worse than no oil at all.
June 28, 2012 at 3:45 pm #51961So what oil is best for the springs…I know there are different weights…how do we know which one to use where?
My newest problem is this:
the pin that holds in the Fast/Slow arm was apparently not supposed to be removed. Now it will hold. I have been trying to spread it wider…any suggestions?June 29, 2012 at 3:50 am #51962The proper way to bodge this would be to get a punch and punch around the hole the pin goes through, this will spread the metal making the hole smaller so it should hold the pin in place. If that dont work your only other option would be to epoxy glue it in place. That is as long as the pin doesnt have to turn in the hole of course.
June 29, 2012 at 1:17 pm #51963Hi Barkerclaudia,
A good grease to use for your alarm clock springs would be Keystone Mainspring Grease “Light”. You can read about and order it here: http://www.milehiclocksupplies.org/lube.htm
And good job on the mainspring repair!!
BobJune 29, 2012 at 3:37 pm #51964Hi barkerclaudia, I have been watching your post :ugeek: , I decided to stay out as Bob and Paul are the best at giving good advice :geek: . I just thought I would say congrats up to now and a word of encouragement. First, dont ever give up, I have this saying on my shop wall with a little drawing, take a look I have had a couple of very frustrating clock jobs recently and as we have all talked about and experienced, I have had to walk away a few times , calm down and rethink. It helps me alot and its amazing how many times I come back to it and everything just falls into place. 🙄 Do you have some books on clock repair????? some are really good with repair techniques, I found one Bob had mentioned, “Top 300 trade secrets of a master clockmaker” by J.M. Huckabee. he has some great ideas on repair techniques ect…. also “practical clock repair” by Donald de Carle, its an older book but has great info, both are worth every penny I paid….also remember that the frustrating ones are the ones we gain the most from. I hope you are having a great day , William
June 30, 2012 at 5:52 am #51965Thanks William, I am enjoying this since is is like one of the many puzzles i love to spend my time on. I have attached the “slow-Fast” lever with a clip..it allows, and am now just trying to figure out how to get it moving. I know it is a problem with the last 2 or 3 pieces. I have to take alot of breaks from the work since I am manning our general store at the same time and I come up with a lot of solutions in my dreams. I have some books on order and can’t wait for them to get here. Thanks Bob for you new suggestions on reading material, I will look for them. Also thanks for the oil info.
-
AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.