HELP?? Gruen Ladies Precision 17 Jewel Cal N225ss Watch

[peggy332014]

This is another one that was in my lot of watches I bought a while back

Gruen Ladies Precision 17 Jewel 237A, cal N225ss. As I’ve searched for info, it’s estimated to be from the 1960’s…but I’ve not found anything that would match this one. The closest I cam with was an interchangeable chart saying it can be a Gruen 225. It is a Swiss watch evidently.

This movement looks like one of those internal sweep hand with the top wheel. I’ve not found any other Gruen movements like this one.. though there are many very similar.. but none of them have the top wheel

The mainspring does not wind, and I can’t seem to get it open. I’ve tried to match up another one or even a mainspring for it. How do I open it? I was able to tap the arbor back and forth some.. the reason it looks somewhat damaged. I’ve tried to pic it open but stopped because I didn’t want to jab myself, or loose the barrel behind my wall somewhere! 😆

Any suggestions, info, or input : : :

[peggy332014]

The barrel measurement is the barrel itself and not the gearing.

[randy]

Peggy,
It might be tomorrow before I can verify info related to the model.
The barrell cap on the mainspring should pop off. Is there a small slot that you can fit a screwdriver blade into ? I couldn’t tell from the photo.
If there is and/or you can get a very slim driver blade under the cap, it should come off.
It looks to me that it’s not sitting flush on the barrel already.
You may also gets some resistance if the arbor is “glued” to the spring from onld grease.

BE CAREFUL !!!, as once you release the cap..everything may fly out violently.

Randy

[peggy332014]

[peggy332014]

Okay!

Randy, you won’t believe what I had to do to get the barrel open! I wouldn’t recommend it the way I did it though..but

If you all remember, I was given some vintage tools from Mahlon before he passed. This tool was in the box. I don’t know what it’s for but it’s some kind of vice or holder. The two arms straight up pinches open to hold things. Then there’s the 3 holes on the base. Since I don’t have a bench block, I thought maybe I could use the holes. Here’s the pics of the tool and the barrel.

With my trusty tool, and my little hammer from my watch took kit.. I set the barrel over the center hole and tapped the arbor down through. It did open the barrel and did not snap, spring out or go flying into ‘no see-um’ land! It just sat there! I picked it up , pulled the spring out like Bob showed us, and there you see it!

The spring looks good, I know Bob recommends putting in a new one, but if I can’t find one for this watch, I will just have to lube this one and put it back in.

WOW! I am so happy! With my original efforts of prying on the barrel with everything I could think of, it did dome the lid some and naturally scratched it from prying. No problem! With my trusty tool, I set the cap on the base, and gently tapped it back flat, and it does look good. I think it will work fine!

Thanks guys! Randy, I look forward to seeing what you can find out on the numbers.

[randy]

I think the tool is an version of a roller remover Peggy.
The holes in the block would be for different sized stakes used to drive the balance assembly loose from the roller, which would be held in the jaws.

As for the movement, I found some information for you here.

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Gruen_225SS

It gives the mainspring dimensions should you decide to replace it.

If you find that you need a new barrel/cap assembly, Otto Frei has them.
http://www.ofrei.com/page1487.html

If you search their website, I’m sure you’ll find a mainspring as well.

If you need more info/help..don’t be afraid to ask.

Best regards,

Randy

[randy]

I think the tool is an version of a roller remover Peggy.
The holes in the block would be for different sized stakes used to drive the balance assembly loose from the roller, which would be held in the jaws.

As for the movement, I found some information for you here.

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Gruen_225SS

It gives the mainspring dimensions should you decide to replace it.

If you find that you need a new barrel/cap assembly, Otto Frei has them.
http://www.ofrei.com/page1487.html

If you search their website, I’m sure you’ll find a mainspring as well.

If you need more info/help..don’t be afraid to ask.

Best regards,

Randy

[peggy332014]

Thanks Randy! I will check those out! I’m thinking I’d like to replace the barrel.

[Bob Tascione]

Nice job Peggy and good thinking!
That spring still looks pretty good. You might give it a try. When I said that “it’s a good idea to replace mainsprings” in the course video that was back when they were cheap and it just made sense to put in a new one. I made that video exactly 25 years ago! Now that mainsprings and parts prices have gone through the roof reusing a mainspring may be the best or only move.
Enjoy,
Bob

[peggy332014]

Thank you Sir! I’m finding it’s hard to find a barrel and spring for this particular movement.. it was made in 1936, I found out today!

[randy]

Peggy,
The link that I posted above for Otto Frei has a barrel/cap assembly for the 225 caliber listed on the lower right side of the page.
I’m thinking that’s the “base” caliber for your watch.
The “SS” just stands for sweep second hand.
You can call Otto Frei to confirm, and they more than likely have a mainspring should you need one.
Just have all your information ready to go when you call….they handle a bunch of calls daily, and can get a bit testy if you don’t know anything about your watch !

Best,

Randy

[peggy332014]

Oh! Okay! I was wondering what the ss was. I could see that it does have that top gear as I was guessing it is an inner sweep hand movement. The other movements I had found did not have it.

I will go check them out again! Thanks Randy! Awesome info!

[peggy332014]

Oh my! ❗ 🙄

Randy, I went and checked on that 225 barrel/spring and clicked the order button to see how much total. The price of $18 is okay, but the shipping/handling of $11+ costs almost as much as the part itself! I will have to wait on that. I’m going to see how this one does going back in. like Bob said, just use the same spring since it looks good yet.

[peggy332014]

Guess what I just found and bought for $12.98 ❗ ❗ I was seeing it yesterday and wasn’t sure about it because the front is different, but today I scrolled down and they had more pics of the movement inside!

1960s GRUEN Precision 225SS Swiss 17 Jewels Ladies Manual Wristwatch For Repair on Ebay! The face is different, but scrolling down the page it had more pics, and the movement is the exact one I have.. numbers matching, screws, wheels, bridges.. identical ❗ ❗ ❗

Condition description: Condition: Surface is in fair/good vintage condition- Watch has general age wear. Dial looks good. Some scratch on the case & on Crystal. Right now the movement is not running. It may need some cleaning or minor repair. We are selling this item for Repair or for Parts. In some areas it has some dirt and/or dust (needs some cleaning).

I can use the barrel/spring from it! YAY!!!!

[peggy332014]

Mine is the older 1936 one. The engraving inside the back case is the original older style than the one I bought today.

I did find out on the numbering somewhat the other day. The older ones like mine have the 999xxx numbering system much like an odometer. In 1956 they broke away from the 999xxx and went to the xxx-xxx numbers. So mine had rolled over before they changed it. Mine is 999352, so that tells me that 648 more were made to reach the millionth watch! 🙄 😆

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