Reply To: 16 Elgin blues…

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#54135
Bob Tascione
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Hi Tom,
I can briefly describe the way I go about adjusting the stones. Not sure if my technique is any better or even as good as other methods out there but it works well and fast for me.

There’s a lot that can be written here but I would most likely just confuse you and myself by repeating things you probably already know. I’ll list a few main points here and will leave them open to questions and suggestions that you or others may have about the procedures mentioned. I’ll try to monitor the thread today so I can respond quickly in case questions arise.

Note: Make sure to check the following adjustments on ALL escape wheel teeth. This is very important as a distorted tooth or wheel is always possible as is a bent escape wheel pivot. This can really mess things up.

1. Adjusting a stones depth for lock will also affect the lock on the opposite stone. Example: if the entry stone is moved outward for more lock the exit stone locking will also increase.

2. Adjusting a stone depth for lock will affect the ‘drop’ (shake) on the ‘opposite stone’. I normally measure drop by measuring the distance between the back of the last discharged escape tooth toe and the discharge corner of the stone. Example would be: when entry stone has locked escape wheel tooth the exit stone has just allowed a tooth to escape…the distance from the stone to the back of this tooth (tip of toe). I find it easier to visually measure this distance than any other way. These distances must be equal for both entry and exit and is determined by the interplay of adjustments between entry and exit stones. Not nearly as difficult as it sounds here.

3. I always start by first checking for roller jewel and safety clearances. If all’s well I then I adjust either the entry or exit banking pin in to the point where the roller jewel just ‘barely’ clears the pallet slot and horns (check on all escape wheel teeth). I then leave the banking pin in that position until the stones have been set in place. Do the same with the opposite banking pin. After stone adjustments are made the slide can be adjusted by moving the banking pins out the required amount (I’ll explain briefly in following paragraph).

4. Banking pins can be used to adjust the ‘total lock’ but not to be used for adjusting the lock (where tooth hits -drop- on locking face) only. Total lock equals the lock (depth) plus the ‘run to banking’ or slide. Usually about 1 1/2 to 2 degrees of lock to 3/4 to one degree of slide (slide equal to 1/3 of total locking). Radius of angle arc is from pallet arbor center to locking corner of stone. Perfect in theory but difficult to measure this angle without using special tool or comparator. Visually comparing the lock under high mag. to a good running watch with good action will usually work well.

I know I’ve only touched on the process here (actually just a quick outline) so please feel free to ask for a more detailed explanation on any of these and/or other points. Also writing this on the fly so if the terminology is confusing (or wrong) please let me know and I’ll try to fix it.

Bob

Bob TascioneReply To: 16 Elgin blues…