The Wheels of Justice…Wait…The Gears of Watchmaking…

[maitai11]

…Turn slowly

Hi Fellas,

I’ve not been on the board a few day because…well, because life happens. I work 24 hour shifts every other day at the fire station, which pretty much prevents me from doing anything but reading up on watchmaking…and, it was my girlfriend’s birthday on Wednesday, so, you know, had to take a break:)

But I’m moving along – slowly! First, I was all excited about finding a caliper in some locksmithing tools I was given some years back – and eventually realized that it measured in 64th’s (groan…)

Off to Home Depot! I picked up a really nice digital caliper (inner/outer/depth) that measures on three scales – fractions, inches, and the all-important millimeters There was no way I was going to convert 64th’s into millimeters – I’m just too dull at math to even go there. I promptly measured my Illinois spring, and got a 2.0 mm reading. HAPPY!!!

Now, I have to order it So much for “Oh yeah, I’m going to order all five springs all at once” – NOT. Since I don’t know the sizes, I’ll just have to do onesies until I become a big baller like all of you, and keep some stock

I am feeling a little bit of what I would call…something like…”Motivational Decompression.” If you know anything about me (Joe?), you’d learn that I am an EXCELLENT starter/initiator/jump starter, and then I’ll sputter out on a lot of things. It really lies in my own stupid inner voice trying to convince me that I can’t do it; I’m no good; you get the point. But the other side is I really do want to do this thing right – otherwise I’d wind this old spring up and just throw it back in…Say…speaking of doing things right:

One of my posts showed both sides of the main plate with what appeared to be some adjustment inner-workings – which I removed and cleaned – but then, I oiled one part, and I don’t think I did the others. Here’s the link: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1381

Look 2/3 of the way down the page for the main plate pics

My question is, should I be GREASING these parts at their contact points, versus oiling? If that’s the case, I’ll be removing these parts and cleaning/redoing it again. Reason why I’m asking is because it isn’t dealt with, that I remember, in Bob’s video on pocket watches…Those particular parts were not on the watch he worked on. Thanks for any help you might be able to provide me.

Good to finally be back on here after a few days

Take care,

Tim

[maitai11]

Sorry Bob, double post here…

[randy]

Tim,
Do you still have the old spring ( I’m assuming you do, as you got one measurement off of it.?) If so, you could get the other dimensions as well ( thickness and length )
If you know the movement caliber, you can order a spring from Otto Frei or Jules Borel just knowing that.
If I’m seeing your pics on the other post correctly,..I’m going to assume that you took everything apart, and cleaned all the gears, plates, etc,..and are now asking us if you should grease or oil certain parts.

Am I on track ?

I so,..let me know, and we can help fill in the blanks.

Best

Randy

[chris mabbott]

RANDY, nice to see you back buddyyy

Tim, I can’t quite tell from your photos what parts you’re referring too, they’re a bit far away and my fading eyes just can’t see 😆
I’m gonna stab in the dark and assume that you’re talking about the piano wire type springs that are held in place by one screw, possibly sunk into a recess?

I don’t follow the prescribed methods, so this is my own theorectical shot at applied lubrication If the tip of a spring is in rubbing contact with another part, then this is friction contact, or wiping contact. Basically, the two parts rub together at a given point under pressure, any lubrication is thus wiped off both parts.. eventually..
So if you enlarge these parts 100 times, the same rules apply to any mechanical equipment, size is therefore irrelevent. So it doesn’t matter if you’re servicing a watch or a tank, same rules apply.

I use for this application, a synthetic EP (extreme pressure) grease that contains teflon. The synthetic will not break down as easilly over time, due to to pressure, the wiping contact. The teflon bonds with metal surfaces. So when the synth grease finally breaks down, the teflon remains to provide a slippery slope for our best friend, Mr spring, without who, we are in a world of sorrow 😆

If I’m talking about the wrong part, forget this..

Oh yeah, don’t worry about the repairers blues creeping in and kicking the crap out of your confidence, happens to me every third day, just ignore it, take a day off, go watch some Ren & Stimpy shows and go back when ready. Once you get situated with tools, parts, and a good healthy supply of watches, the world is much happier 🙄

[maitai11]

Hi Guys!

I’m not sure whether we’ve met yet, Randy, but I’ve seen some of your self-styled, down-to-earth, solid advice, and I’m pleased to meet you finally!

And, thank you for your input here: <!– l –>viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1396<!– l –> I will certainly take your advice to heart.

Also, yes, as you saw, I took all measurements (width, thickness, length). Thanks Randy! I’ll look into that account. Also, Randy, when you speak of CALIBER, is that also another word for GRADE??? Please advise. Thanks

Guys, I’m posting pics that are hopefully a little better, and with arrows to boot! What are these mystery parts, Chris? On the front of the plate, it’s a “crescent moon” shape held down with one screw. The back of that part has a pin that contacts with the parts on the back. The parts on the back (three arrows) could be described as a spring on the bottom, topped with a circular part held down with one screw, as well as a “lever” that is spring activated and probably has more than one contact point

Chris, thanks for that 21st century lubrication tip! I actually like that very much, the teflon imbedding itself into the contact area. We’ll look for that, and in the meantime, I think I’ll take all that apart and use a little Mobius grease

Also Chris, thanks for that good support, speaking about the watchman’s blues It’s great to know I’m not alone, really!

Thanks Guys!

Tim

[maitai11]

Chris,

Please reveal your secret Teflon-imbedded lubrication preparation’s name…So I’ll know what exactly to pick up

Thanks!

Tim

[randy]

It’s good to be back Chris !!!!

Tim,
Yes..Grade/calibre gets you to the same info, depending on how the particular manufacturer presented the information.

Looks like you’re asking about the clutch lever/ shifting mechanism.
I use KT-22…some use Moebius,..Chris might use “oil of Yak” 😆 …dig through Otto Frei’s listing of lubricants, and you can see the options for greases and oils..I think they also have a download from Moebius that shows their particular applications.

And thanks for the kind words Tim…I try to help ( as we all do )…..

Best

Randy

[chris mabbott]

Tim, that’s an American watch, correct? I ask because they are using a typical Euro design for the wind/set shift mechanism, you don’t normally see that system on the earlier U.S. models. I know that the EU was producing some plates for the U.S. market, possibly one of these?

Yes. I usually remove every part, even the springs, so I have a virgin plate. I learned a hard lesson some time ago when I inadvertently FU’d a spring while cleaning.

Products & names are not the same, mine is made in the EU somewhere so very doubtful that it will be in the US as there are zero north American products to be found this side of the pond, except McDonalds..YUCK.

If I remember correctly, I think slick 50 made a similar grease, with teflon, not sure if it was synthetic though, just go into an automotive store and ask. Try to find a clear one if possible, if not, fine too.. I just find the black looks ugly. Personal preference.

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