Taig Lathe

[mahlon]

David,
You have convinced me to takt a closer look at the Taig lathe. I am looking at their largest starter package. I have never opperated a metal lathe, so I have know idea as to what I will need. Any information you can provide will be appreciated.
Mahlon

[arutha]

Hi Mahlon,
check this link out, it will help a little.
http://www.jeffree.co.uk/pages/divheadmk1.html

The extras you need will depend on how much you are going to do yourself. Are you wanting to cut wheels, make your own screws etc.

Here is a link to a book about the Taig lathe.

http://divisionmaster.co.uk/press.html

If it works out cheaper to buy a “starter pack” then this could be the way to go, give us a link so we can see what is in it and then we can tell you how useful the extras are.
If it is not any cheaper it might be best to just get the lathe and then buy the extras as you need them.
A dial indicator is a useful tool to buy with the lathe as this lets you know if the work is true, very handy when trying to set work up in a 4 jaw chuck.
Paul.

[mahlon]

Thanks Paul,
The web site I went to was http://www.taigtools.com/mlathe.html . scrol down to the bottom, and it has starter suggestion. As far as wheel cutting goes, I would like to be able to do as much of the clock repair as possible. I am not sure that I will live long enough to understand the process of building and operating my own wheel cutting set up.

[arutha]

Unless you want to go down the used route, save some cash and buy a used motor and or new pulleys I would get the motor with it. The main things to get first would be a 3 jaw chuck and maybe the collet set. I would definitely get the tailstock which you will use for drilling out and re-pivoting bigger arbors than you can fit in your watchmakers lathe. Do you have the means to sharpen and shape your tool cutting bits? A small bench grinder can come in handy for this. Other than that I cant think of much more you will need in the course of basic clock repairs. A quick change tool post set saves a lot of time but is not essential. 1190 steady rest is useful unless you fancy having a go at making one like Williams. I know David likes the accuracy of a 4 jaw chuck and it certainly does have its place in the tool kit but just for cutting arbors etc a 3 jaw should be perfectly adequate.
It is then a matter of equipment to be used with the lathe.
Center drills, Drill bits, jacobs chuck for the tailstock, boring bars, tool steel for bits etc.
Paul.

[arutha]

The drilling tailstock looks like a very useful piece of kit!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Taig-Metal-jewelers-watchmakers-pen-wood-pool-cue-lathe-/150998963658?pt=BI_Lathes&hash=item23283d55ca

[david pierce]

Mahlon,
Start by deciding what you want to machine before making a decision. The Taig, especially with the ER-16 spindle should be perfect for clock size parts. If you need a lathe to make .1 mm diameter watch pivots, the Taig would not be a good choice. The Taig offers a lot more size and power than a WW lathe and the ER-16 collets hold better. They are also less expensive than the WW collets and each collet can accommodate a larger range of shaft sizes. It can take heavier cuts and can utilize larger drill bits than a WW machine. There are also numerous accessories that are available and affordable for the Taig. The motor is massave for a small lathe and is quiet when it runs.
There are videos of the machine on Youtube and other internet places so you can see it running. If the parts you want to make are in the size range the lathe is designed for, you should be very happy with the machine.
david

[mahlon]

Paul, David,
I appreciate the help. I think I will go with the taig. The starter kit looks to be a good start. I am not to intereted in watches at this time. This is what comes with the starter kit.
Package #3 (1017-3) Just about everything you will need

– Micro lathe assembled unit
– Collet set with 8 collets and closer
– 3 jaw self centering chuck
– 0 to 1/4 inch Jacobs chuck
– 6 piece tool bit set
– Drilling tailstock with 3/8-24 thread
– 12 x 18 mounting board
– motor mount bracket
– 1/2 inch pulley set (3M 500 belt)
– 1/4 hp Marathon Motor (1725 RPM) wired with switch and cord.
$196.00
$31.90
$65.90
$10.90
$29.90
$40.10
$8.00
$5.40
$27.60
$106.70
Internet special
with free shipping
in the U.S.A.
$491.06
Upgrade any package to a powerfeed lathe for only 75.00 more
I am not sure what the power feed does for the lathe. Can you explain it’s purpose
Mahlon

[david pierce]

Mahion,
For the type of work you will be doing, feeding by hand will be just fine. A power feed is necessary if chip control is a problem. It will not be an issue with clock pivots or other short cuts.
david

[david pierce]

Mahlon,
I am a firm believer that there is no such thing a lathe that will work well for all jobs. I love the Geneva design lathes for extremely small parts and have no problem liking the 6mm machines. Many people do not like the 6mm lathes because they can not handle the larger size parts. My spin on this is for larger parts use a larger lathe. I think you will find that your Taig will be perfect for the size parts you will be working on. You will also find it useful for making tools such as staking tools. The Taig can do all of the operations easily.
david

[arutha]

that looks like a perfect starter set to me, the only thing i would add is a steady rest for working on longer pieces.
Paul

[mahlon]

David, and Paup,
thanks again for the advise. I think I will go with this set. Paul I am glad you reminded me about the steady rest. I had seen then listed, and was pretty sure that I should have one. Also i think I am going to buy a new craftsman drill press. I have a cheep drill press that I use once in awhile in my restoration work, but it tends to drift alittle.
mahlon

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