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Hey Ren, the nice thing about buying a working pocket watch is most likely everything is in its right spot, you wont be pulling the rest of your hair out trying to figure out what is missing or what you need to do to get it up and running. This is a very good way to learn how things are supposed to work and function if your investment isnt steep, remembering the possibility of damaging it in the learning process. Beware with ebay or any other place when purchasing a timepiece and not having inspected it thoroughly, “In running condition” doesnt always mean what you may think.
On the other hand the first pocket watch I bought to work on cost me $18, it did not run and it was a swiss movement. my main reason I bought it was to get used to working with the smaller tools and parts, I had already been working on clocks for some time. With this one I wasnt worried about weather I messed something up or not, the idea was to get the practice with using small screwdrivers, tweezers, dealing with the balance, mainspring, case parts, ect….I took it completely apart and put it back together many times over. Once I was feeling comfortable I bought a bit nicer American pocket watch, still rather cheap, I think $20 from someone I knew, and not working. this was a good challenge for me because it needed alot of work….with alot of study and careful experimentation on repair techniques I was successful at getting it running, but I am also a bit balder than I was…..It did pay off though, I learned alot and acquired a new hat
.One other idea for learning that I also used when first starting…I found a pile of discarded or unwanted parts. for instance there was a small jar full of balances with broken staffs, perfect for practicing staff removal, mocking the procedure for fitting a new one, also learning to re-true a balance, even dealing with hairsprings and straightening them out, repining collets or studs and making the jigs or tools for the job, dealing with jewels, so on and so on……
My advice…..start cheap and with whatever…..there will still be nice watches out there when you are ready with the knowledge, know-how and cash……Hope that gives some ideas for you, Have fun….. William
Ren:
I’m with David on this one. I did the cheaper (not always that cheap either) “not running” pocket watches on eBay when I started and, although I have learned a great deal (mostly about what NOT to do) if I had it to do over again I would have first went with the working watch option. Esslinger has the Chinese movement that David is talking about, It’s a skeletonized movement that will allow you to see the train much better than the plate watches that you normally find. Additionally, it’s only $12.95 not including shipping.! Should you wish to have a look, here’s the link:
http://www.esslinger.com/2650s-mechanical-movements-watch-movement.aspx
Good luck – you are in for an exciting journey!
Tom
Great answer and sound advice by our very own Mr Pierce. So good in fact that I can’t find anything else to add, imagine that 😆
So this means David is buying the next round
Ren when I started I found that 16s watches were the easiest to learn on. Full plate 18s can be a challenge until you get working on wathes down. Just my opinion. I went to garage sales, flea markets, auctions and ebay. Ebay and auctions can be your most expensive per se. There are a lot of watches on ebay that are $50 and down. I started with a working watch because I knew everything was ok. So I just had to study the watch which made it easier for me to learn. The ones you buy that aren’t working most of the time it is a broken balance staff or mainspring. I started with Elgin because it seems the parts for them are much more readily available. As far as buying without case or with case is up to you. My thoughts are I try to buy complete because I found if you buy a non-cased movement that is nice and say pay $25 to say $35 for it and then you have to find a case to fit. Those can cost you from $50 to $110 or more. The cases for $50 or less are not worth buying because they are so worn they are terrible. Don’t ask me how I know this. The other thing that is happening is a lot of these guys selling on ebay are selling the cases for the gold hence a load of movements only for sale. I had one guy told me he makes more money selling the case for the gold and silver and then selling the movements on ebay seperately. Sucks!! So IMHO I would rather pay $50 for a complete watch which is cheaper and once fixed I do sell the watches so I make my money back. I generally look at the buy-it-now and put in $5 to $50. If you watch you can get some decent deals and no there are no $10 watches anymore. I just bought over the last two months 4 complete watches off ebay all for less than $50 each. I just sold one last Friday. A Elgin 17 jewel I fixed for $185. Sorry this is so long but this is how I started for what its worth.
Hi Guys,
Thanks for the replies, I really apprciate it.
I bit the bullet this morning and purchased an Elgin, in working order.Here’s a couple of photos and watch info:
Case:good condition with some dents & wear
The Crystal is Very Good Condition.
The Dial: is in good condition with a couple hairline fractures.Movement: This piece is running strong
16s, 15 jewels, model 6, grade 312
stem set, working great, keeps time.
Estimated year of production 1918
Movement is stamped as follows
Elgin Natl Watch Co.
21332003
Well done Ren, looks like a nice watch
If you watch Bobs videos on watch servicing it will explain a lot and help you understand the basics needed for taking that watch apart safely and also which tools you will need to do the job. If you have any problems we will do our best to help you out.
Good luck and keep us posted
Paul.Nice pick up Ren. Getting attached to your first is an understatement, which is why I became a collector 😆
Although pocket watches are ok, you can store 400 or more in a medium box, clocks on the other hand
David my brother, thank you for the nice compliment, coming from a man that knows his stuff as you do, I feel privileged.
You know those guys that have the first dollar they ever earned, I think that’ fits me with watches 😆
I got into American watches because my granddad gave me his Elgin 7j 18s, guess I’ve been fiddling and collecting since the late 70s. I’m first and foremost a militaria collector, so WW1 trench watches got involved with medals 😆
Then I kinda got bored and morphed into the first, early transitional pocket/wrist watch conversions , which I traded etc
Myself and a little group of collectors, who do NOT repair their items & do not have any inclination to do so, we share, swap, trade etc and sometimes they send me a really bad one to restore for them. In return we help each other with hunting and parts
Because I do everything by hand detailing, it can take 20 hrs + to restore a case.
I’ve just finished one of my own that was literally green and beginning to get eaten away by verdigris.I’d like to make a comment about 18 size watches though.. They’re not as simplistic nor as easy as people think, I mean, yes they’re big but like any other size 0-16 there is a learning curve. Some people seem to think that they are a beginners size, maybe they are, but the same skill is required for them as for their tinier cousins. Personally, I learnt on 18s because that is what I collect, when I eventually started acquiring smaller sizes, the only problem I had was getting used to the stronger loupe 😆
18 size watches are the granddaddy of them all, they are where it began and in a time of strict gender distinction, these were solely a mans watch, a working man, those that made the industrial revolution into a reality through sweat, blood and guts. Besides, you can see the demaskeening better 😆David I’ve never seen 400 antique lathes either but hopefully one day you’ll treat us to a preview
Ok I’m rambling over breakie 😆
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