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June 19, 2015 at 5:29 am #49612
I’m finally back on the board asking about the thing that I need help on, to see who’s new, and to see what folks are coming up with for solutions to their various tick tock maladies. Here are a couple for you to ponder:
Shellac: I have a combination tool that SAYS I don’t have to remove everything off in order to re-shellac the roller jewel, but that also got me thinking. You know, much the same as how some people think boxwood dust is an outdated concept – what about shellac? I’m not saying go all-in on super glue, but are there other alternatives that would give the same performance as shellac would, in order to hold the roller in, as well as the pallet jewels?
Secondly, I have a couple watches that are the “hole end” type. Man, someone wasn’t thinking straight when they decided to create a mainspring system that requires the watchmaker to engage the spring without looking, because it’s undercover, and on and on about, just WHY. WHYYYYY. WHYYYYYYYYYYYYOOOOOOOOO!!!!! Did you do the opposite of what everyone else is doing and cause the watchmaker some heartache when trying to get all those pieces together? I ask you now, buds:
What is your method of getting a “hole end” into the barrel to hook onto the wall, then to curdle in the center to receive the cap part (which also has the “hook barrel” that the spring needs to engage), etc Please, anyone, can you give us your favorite way of getting the hole – end spring to install, work, and engage with the inserted barrel, etc.? It would be greatly appreciated! I hope I’m not being unclear in any way…Thank you, though! I look forward to seeing some great answers.
I’ve encountered the “hole end” twice recently, and I gotta tell you, the frustration level these things generate! And help would be greatly appreciate so that I can become a pro at installing this challenging piece.
TimJune 19, 2015 at 8:16 am #62916stevefitzwaterParticipant
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- Total Posts: 385
Well as far as Shellac, it is a far better solution then glue, because with a little heat, you can re-adjust anything secured with it, as opposed to glue, which once it is dried, it is set, no adjusting. And I still use Boxwood dust for my drying my hairsprings, even after I run it through the L&R Varimatic, I take the balance staff apart and clean it, then re-poise it.
As far as the hole end Mainspring, I have done several of these with little problem, but then my most recent thread talks about the slippage I am dealing with and I am pretty sure it is the hole end MS that is causing the problem. Here my plan of attack for the next time I go to my shop, I am going to use Rodico to make an impression of the barrel side where the catch is, and try to get some measurements, then make sure the bottom clearance of the spring allows the catch to clear the hole in the mainspring, then reshape the mainspring hole to ensure it will catch. I think they are off enough that the catch is not catching the hole and just slipping when it is wound past a specific point.
We are dealing Mainsprings made by 3rd parties, and you can have tolerance issues anytime that happens…June 19, 2015 at 1:05 pm #62917
Thanks very much for those answers. I appreciate you taking the time. My main issue with the mainspring is inserting the cover with the inner barrel catch – the outer one, in this case, seems to be catching just fine. If we have to make a typical arbor do all these kinds of things like hold it down while slightly expanding the spring (which needs AT LEAST 2 1/2 hands,) then this one is mind boggling to me. So now, I’m supposed to do all that without ANY hands or tweezers in there – I simply must place the cap and attached arbor over the inner coil, and VOILA! it goes in like butter? Frustrating to see some of these designs. We press on.
TimJune 20, 2015 at 7:55 pm #62918david pierceParticipant
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It is always a good idea to measure the old parts that worked properly and check (inspect) the new parts in order to see if everything is similar enough to work properly. In the case of a spring with a hole that must line up with a pin, the diameter and placement of the hole will determine if the pin will go into the hole or not. The old part worked so that is an excellent starting point to determine the correct dimensions needed to make it work. If the hole in the new spring is too small or at an incorrect location, it can be modified with needle files to line up with the pin. If you do not already have a set of digital calipers, they can be obtained from a place like Harbor Freight or Ebay for less than $20.00.
davidJune 24, 2015 at 10:54 pm #62919
Thanks for that great reply. I used pre-wound springs whenever possible, so measuring the spring hole can be a bit of a challenge…until the spring comes unwound and you have to deal with it! But, thanks, I definitely appreciate it and will take that info to heart. Good stuff. Thanks again!
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