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  • #48998
    mahlon
    Participant
    • Topics Started: 28
    • Total Posts: 215

    This is a clock that I purchased some time back for parts, but just could not part it out. It is a Seth Thomas from the college series. This is the Harvard model. This case was also used for the capitol, and actors series. The first pic, is of the case as found. The veneered crown had lost several pieces on the front as well as the back. I reproduced the crown ,re-veneered, then re-carved it The click spring had broken on the strike side, pushing the side of the case out, as well as destroying the #2 lantern pinion, and the great wheel had several teeth that were so bent that they were not repairable. I found replacements for both and am working on the movement now. I will post pics. of the movement when I have it finished. I believe that this movement had been oiled with axil grease. Anyway that is what it smelled like. One of the pivots on the time side had a groove in it and the grease had dried up to form a petty nice bushing. I had to soak the movement for about 20 min. to be able to pull that pivot out of the plate. When I bought this clock for $20. they told me that it was a running clock. I think the only time this clock was running, is when I ran home thinking what a great deal I had gotten 😯 Mahlon

    #57281
    ewinrow
    Participant
    • Topics Started: 26
    • Total Posts: 185

    Hey mahlon, you are restoring the entire clock yes? The two pics are somewhat confusing to me. It looks like a well made clock, however I could be wrong but it seems as though you have done your homework on it. It seems to be a good project and a worthy one in the end. Keep us posted, I am curious. I would really like to see the end result and the process in which you have done to come-up with the finished result. Looking forward, Ed. 8-)

    #57282
    mahlon
    Participant
    • Topics Started: 28
    • Total Posts: 215

    Hey Ed, Yes I am restoring the whole clock. I am trying to get a better pic of the case. It ia a lot darker than the first pic shows. My camera is not taking very good pics. It could be the operator :? Mahlon

    #57283
    bernie weishapl
    Participant
    • Topics Started: 58
    • Total Posts: 1218

    That is a good looking project Mahlon. Be really interesting to see the outcome.

    #57284
    arutha
    Participant
    • Topics Started: 85
    • Total Posts: 1536

    Very nice job on that case Mahlon, I know where to send mine now ;)
    Look forward to seeing how you get on with this one, I too have a “Gingerbread” clock that needs some attention.
    Paul.

    #57285
    mahlon
    Participant
    • Topics Started: 28
    • Total Posts: 215

    Thanks guys, I wish my camera would show just how pretty this case really is. The color looks different at every angle. It is always hard to tone new veneer to old hard wood, but this one rally matched well. Mahlon

    #57286
    willofiam
    Moderator
    • Topics Started: 75
    • Total Posts: 1437

    @mahlon wrote:

    I think the only time this clock was running, is when I ran home

    Thats funny Mahlon, I dont take anyones word for it anymore, always ask the question “what does that mean” VERY nice work on the case, I always struggled with matching color on old and new wood, takes alot of time and creative thinking. William

    #57287
    mahlon
    Participant
    • Topics Started: 28
    • Total Posts: 215

    The finished product. :) Mahlon

    #57288
    bernie weishapl
    Participant
    • Topics Started: 58
    • Total Posts: 1218

    That is extremely well done Mahlon. I like the looks of the cabinet. What did you use for a finish on it or did you put a finish on it?

    #57289
    mahlon
    Participant
    • Topics Started: 28
    • Total Posts: 215

    Thanks Bernie, I used minwax provincial stain, then one coat orange shellac 3# cut, followed by 6 coats semi-gloss lacquer. I am pretty well pleased with the clock over all. It seems to be the quietest running kitchen clock that I have. Mahlon

    #57290
    bernie weishapl
    Participant
    • Topics Started: 58
    • Total Posts: 1218

    Thanks Mahlon. Never thought of using lacquer. I always restore using the same finish they did back when. I have always used several coats of shellac sprayed on. May have to give your method a try. I like minwax stains a lot and have been able to match most of what I have did.

    #57291
    mahlon
    Participant
    • Topics Started: 28
    • Total Posts: 215

    Bernie if you are used to using shellac, you’ll have no problem with lacquer. I started using lacquer years ago when I bought my first HLVP. Since it has a pre-heater on it , I was afraid it would get too hot to use alcohol based finish. With antiques, using shellac causes a problem when they are placed where direct sun light hits them. Shellac tends to soften when it gets warm, plus, lacquer has a little more u-v protection. I can spray when the shop is as low as 40 degrees with out any problem. :D Mahlon

    #57292
    bernie weishapl
    Participant
    • Topics Started: 58
    • Total Posts: 1218

    I generally advise customers not to refinish a case and I would say all of them probably will never be set in the sun so I really never worried about it. I have one project coming up that I am going to strip the case and redo it. I bought it at the local thrift shop. It is all there but it is also in several pieces. The lacquer I use is from Target Coatings and is their EM 6000. It is a water based finish and is the only water based lacquer that will burn into the old layer like Deft lacquer, etc. I only lightly sand the first coat becauses it raises the grain. Other than that when it is finished I can’t tell the difference. I also use their EM 9000 poly. Anyway going to give it a go. Oh I spray water based finishes because of the smell and I also spray with a airbrush gun which does a excellent job. I bought one that sprays the same pattern as the big boy sprayers. Thanks for the info.

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mahlonNew Prodject