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January 13, 2014 at 4:23 pm #48806
I disassembled and cleaned a simple Sessions time and strike movement, and I’m having problem with the strike train. I’m sure it’s a simple problem but I don’t have the experience to figure it out.
The strike side continues without stopping on the hours. The lever travels along the countwheel and when it hits the indented grove where it should stop, it just continues until the spring runs down. I’m pretty sure I have the two levers placed correctly – any suggestions?January 13, 2014 at 5:23 pm #55221willofiamModerator
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Hey marko66, looking at your lever system for the chime count you have 3 different levers, the count lever, the drop lever and the locking lever. they each have a job to do at the same time. when the count lever drops into the deeper slot the drop lever also has to drop into the space on the cam, centered in that space AND at the same time the stop pin hits the lock lever. I try to get these lined up during assembly but it usually takes some fine adjusting afterwards. I give it a bit of power and with my finger I stop the train when the count lever gets into the deep slot, now when I look at the wheel pin and cam I can visually figure the direction and # of teeth a particular wheel has to be moved. By capturing the wheels that will not have to be moved with a few alligator clamps so things dont move around, let down the power again and loosen a couple of screws, lift the plate just enough to get the pinion away from the gear teeth and spin however far you need to. may take a few tries. also I think Bobs videos will show that relationship with all the levers, cams and pins. One other thing to look for when you manually stop the train with the count lever all the way into the slot is if the locking lever is dropping far enough to hit the stop pin, if not the adjustment can be made on the count lever by bending it up a bit allowing all the levers to drop further, if bent too far up you will notice right away because the locking lever will hit the pin while it is chiming, the adjustment should be just enough clearance for the pin to pass by the locking lever while the train is running. The count lever will have to then be adjusted to drop into the slot properly, It should travel towards the great wheel center and drop into the slot squarely and with even space on both sides, if too close to the trailing edge of the slot it will bind up, hope that helps, better yet hope it makes sense . WilliamJanuary 13, 2014 at 5:28 pm #55222
William, I’ll give it a shot and let you know. I appreciate the info and quick reply – thanks a million!January 15, 2014 at 6:27 am #55223
I’m getting closer. I set everything up correctly, but now when the count hook lifting lever lifts the count lever, the cam only will rotate once (one strike) – it stops whether the count hook is in a shallow or deep groove. I’ll keep watching the videos until it sinks in….January 15, 2014 at 6:53 am #55224
Got it – just had to bend the warn stop lever up a bit.
This gave me a lot of satisfaction. I appreciate your advice, William!January 15, 2014 at 7:11 am #55225mahlonParticipant
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Hey Mark066, I had the same problem with my first strick train. It took awhile for me to realize that I was not bending a one inch steel rod(a little bit goes along way MahlonJanuary 15, 2014 at 8:12 am #55226willofiamModerator
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Hey Mark066, good job, as Mahlon states small adjustments go a long way, from experience I have learned to not bend anything until I am sure I am bending it in the right direction because you can really go in circles with the adjustments, possibly break something 😯 . The concepts of how your chime system works will help in most other chiming mechanisms.
Job well done!!! now on to the next. William
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