Making multi tooth cutters – Part 2

[willofiam]

Here is part 2 about fabricating multi tooth cutters for clocks. In part 2 I am going to show my process for grinding the radius on the form tool with a grinding jig I made for my lathe. The radius is critical, the jig makes it easy to achieve this radius.
Have fun, William

This will be a multiple video series about my process in making these cutters.
I hope you enjoy, ideas are always welcome.

BACK TO FORUM INDEX PAGE: http://clockrepairtips.com/forum/index.php

[youtube:1gi1mq1n]JAaowOG2l0c[/youtube:1gi1mq1n]

BACK TO FORUM INDEX PAGE: http://clockrepairtips.com/forum/index.php

[khoward279]

Hi William,
You may already know this but try setting your cutoff tool slightly above center and use constant feed. In my years as a tool maker I have found if your cutting air hardening tool steel, A2 D2 and so on I don’t go over 200 rpm and .002 IPR. I also use cutting fluid designed for tapping and use a lot with an acid brush works great on small work. When cutting oil hardening steel, 4140 O1 ect. I cut at no more than 150 and .002 IPM. Try this and see how it works. Thanks for the video’s and good luck with your projects.

[gerene]

Thanks William!
Looking forward to see the rest!

Jan

[willofiam]

Thanks Jan, in the next video I debated on how far to get into the math…..It would take me days 🙄 to explain. It also may be best to address the finer points when actually designing and or cutting a true wheel or pinion. Stay tuned. Oh, and don’t be shy to get involved in those particular parts, you are probably able to explain those things better than I can.
Kevin, thank you for the advice I really appreciate it, I will try everything you mentioned. Do you think it is possible to have the rpm TOO SLOW? In back gear I can get down to 28rpm. Having the tool bit “just above” center would help me, one thing that I do have happen is the tool bit getting jammed up under the work piece (not fun), yes this can be from wear in my cross slide and such but I am thinking I can adjust for that with your suggestion. Have a great day, William

[oldmantime]

Thanks William
Excellent!
Looking forward to the next post and hopefully video.

Peter

[willofiam]

Hey Peter, thank you for the reply, I love your forum name…..say, I think I walk by your picture when I come into the shop. Is this you??? or is it Bob??
😆

[oldmantime]

Well William Bob has the beard but I have the years — many more years than Bob I think so regrettably that would be me. 😆

Peter

[willofiam]

That’s funny Peter, but just so you know…..I am catching up to you guys real fast.
Keep an eye out for Parts 3 and 4 on this process, coming soon. Have a great day, William

[its time]

William
I see this is a old post but this might be a little bit of help to cut the small disc. This fella made a plate that sets on the chuck and you can place the disc in the same place everytime. Take a look at this video, I think you might get some good ideas.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CJ0fs9zknQk

Buy the way I love all of what you have done and I’ll be watching
Nelson Collar

[willofiam]

Hey Nelson, I bought some machinable step collets for the lathe, they work great, Thanks, William

[its time]

William
I just seen this and thought it might help you out with your cutting wheels. I watched a video long time ago and can not remember where it is but here is the gear set up.
http://mb.nawcc.org/showthread.php?124511-Gear-Pinion-Cutting-Set

How is you gear cutting along?
Nelson

[willofiam]

Hey Nelson, yes I have seen that, I like his videos….. The process I have shown and the formulas have proven to be accurate many times over and I have used them to create the cutters for clock restorations. I am currently “scrounging” for used manufactured cutters and plan on buying a range of them new for a clock build and to be able to offer a clock wheel cutting service for other clock repairers. Pretty busy getting all my ducks in a row for that…. though I have cut a few wheels for other people recently. Have a great day, William

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