How do I get rid of WD 40?

[ralberto2001]

hi Everyone,
My question is how do I get rid of WD 40 on a movement?
I have a ginger bread clock that I bought about a year ago
and I remember to this day that it smelled like WD 40.
Well I have not started working on yet,but I shined a flashlight
in the case and sure enough it is gunkey!
When I get started on it I will try to get some pictures up to show
you and I say try because right now I cannot even get my avatar
picture up.
Maybe that would be a second question on how to do that, but
right now I am really concerned about this gunkey clock.
thanks, Richard.

[chris mabbott]

Hey Richard,

OK avatar first…

Step #1 log in to the forum.. Once you have been logged in you will see the screen in the snap shot below..

Select USER CONTROL PANEL…

[chris mabbott]

Once you are in your User Control Panel UCP, Select…. PROFILE..

[chris mabbott]

Profile will take you to the EDIT PROFILE section where you will select EDIT AVATAR..

[chris mabbott]

Once you are in the EDIT AVATAR view, you can BROWSE your PC files for a suitable image which you select and upload by following the instructions.

Remember the size constraints marked with the black circle. You will need a photo editing program to size your image..

I hope this helps

[cazclocker]

Hi Richard,

Are you prepared to fully disassemble the movement? If you are, then you are home free, unless some of the WD-40 has invaded the pores of the wooden case (in which case, I have heard of various methods to remove smells like that, but I’ve never had to so I can’t comment).

The WD-40 likely got ALL OVER the movement, so you’ll have to fully disassemble the movement, to begin with. I like to do an initial soak in Extreme Simple Green – it’s an very effective degreasing agent. Once it’s been degreased, you can proceed to use your favorite clock cleaning solution, followed by a warm water rinse, and finally at least TWO rinses in 99% isopropyl alcohol (do NOT use rubbing alcohol – it’s 40% water) to eliminate all traces of the water. Then, proceed with whatever restoration steps are called for on your particular clock.
That will take care of the WD-40 contamination in the clock movement itself. I’m sure the WD-40 was applied by some previous owner, not you! Unfortunately WD-40 has been used as a hopeful cure-all for clocks for a long time. People apply the stuff thinking it will fix a sticky clock – it might for a while, but they fail to realize how badly it gums up after a few years.

Unfortunately, the WD-40 was most likely sprayed onto the movement while the movement was in place, probably still affixed to the case. If that is what happened, some of the WD-40 probably dripped onto the bottom of the wood underneath the movement. Can anyone chime in regarding how to remove a smell from wood? I’ve heard of products made for pet owners to get rid of stubborn animal urine odors – but again, I can’t comment since I sure don’t know about things like that.

I hope this helped you at least a little bit.
…Doug

[chris mabbott]

For removing oil, grease, WD40 etc, on clock parts, which are large, you can use a mild de-greaser. I use a water soluble, natural type which is lemon based, citric acid. It’s non-toxic and environmentally friendly and cuts through lube without leaving any residue.
It will NOT remove any varnish or clear coats, it’s only for gunk removal.. You’ll have a similar product in the US, I used to use one there also, usually orange flavored 😆 I usually rinse the parts after cleaning in warm soapy water before moving on to the proper deep, inspection cleaning process..

I’m sure you’ll get many opinions as we all have our own favorite brew/products/methods, and all work. The problem is, deciding 😆

[ralberto2001]

Thank you Chris and Doug for your replies.
Hey Doug I am up to dissasembling movement.
I will soak movement like yaw suggested and then brush parts
alittle then rinse that off with warm water, let dry then I will start cleaning in Ultrasonic cleaner
rinse off then put in 99% alcohol.
And thanks Chris for showing me how to do the avatar pictures.
Thanks again, Richard

[bernie weishapl]

Richard I do basically the same thing. If it is really bad I soak it in Napatha otherwise it is in Zep Citrus Industrial cleaner full strength. I agree that the movement must be tore completely down and cleaned. You can’t get WD40 out of the pivot holes, etc without it. Also the springs must be cleaned and I use 0000 steel wool to make sure they are clean. Peg your pivot holes with with pegwood to make sure it is completely out of the holes. Good luck. That stuff is nasty stuff.

[ralberto2001]

Thanks Bernie!
I will definally give that a try!
Thanks, Richard

[arutha]

I wash “gummy” movements and mainsprings in brake and clutch cleaner. It takes seconds to clean it off.
Paul.

[cazclocker]

@Arutha wrote:

I wash “gummy” movements and mainsprings in brake and clutch cleaner. It takes seconds to clean it off.
Paul.

Excellent point, Paul. I found brake & clutch cleaner to be a nearly unbeatable way to dissolve the nastiest gum buildup on any metal part. Thank you, Paul, for reminding me.
…Doug

[ralberto2001]

Thanks Paul!!
I will give that a try.
thanks, Richard

[arutha]

@cazclocker wrote:

Excellent point, Paul. I found brake & clutch cleaner to be a nearly unbeatable way to dissolve the nastiest gum buildup on any metal part. Thank you, Paul, for reminding me.
…Doug

Hey Doug, no problem

I have been banging on about this stuff on the forum for ages, it is mainly trichloroethylene and I am convinced it is exactly what is sold in the bergeon “One Dip” bottles for hairsprings. I use it as one dip and it gets everything spotless not to mention costing £14 for 5 litres instead of over £20 for a small bottle of one dip! 😯
Make sure you wear gloves when using this stuff!
Paul.

[cazclocker]

@Arutha wrote:

@cazclocker wrote:

Excellent point, Paul. I found brake & clutch cleaner to be a nearly unbeatable way to dissolve the nastiest gum buildup on any metal part. Thank you, Paul, for reminding me.
…Doug

Hey Doug, no problem

I have been banging on about this stuff on the forum for ages, it is mainly trichloroethylene and I am convinced it is exactly what is sold in the bergeon “One Dip” bottles for hairsprings. I use it as one dip and it gets everything spotless not to mention costing £14 for 5 litres instead of over £20 for a small bottle of one dip! 😯
Make sure you wear gloves when using this stuff!
Paul.

Alright, I didn’t know the chemical makeup of brake cleaning fluid (or spray), but now I see why it’s so good. The other day, on this thread, I almost commented that (and this is just my opinion) plain acetone would probably qualify for the other extremely good universal cleaning agent for greasy or grimy metal surfaces…but I actually think I prefer brake cleaner! I know that brake cleaners come in ammoniated and un-ammoniated solutions. A while ago I made a nice cutting fluid using the ammoniated kind – and it works very well.

Anyway, nice to be reminding me I gotta go get a new bottle of ammoniated brake cleaner!
…Doug

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