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January 18, 2014 at 5:28 pm #55374
Before…
January 18, 2014 at 5:32 pm #55375And after the toothpick polishing, I just have to give it a dip and a buff, but it’s lovely to see these parts shine again..
January 18, 2014 at 5:35 pm #55376I’ll update as I progress, time for bed… Hope this will prove useful and/or enjoyable to someone, even though it is the basics..
January 18, 2014 at 11:08 pm #55377Chris,
Zippo lighter fluid is Naptha. I buy it by the gallon from a home improvement store over here called HOME DEPOT. When I mentioned that I used it to clean watch parts on the NAWCC forum it started a barage of nasty comments. One guy flashed his ROLEX credentials in my face and told me I “needed to man up and use L&R cleaner”. My thought when I saw the comment was ROLEX does not have a jerk filter when they issue their credentials. I have been using it in an ultrasonic cleaner and have been pleased with the way it works. I recently purchased a conventional L&R old time propeller/jar machine but it hasn’t come in yet. I somehow feel vindicated to see someone else using Naptha to clean watch parts.
davidJanuary 19, 2014 at 6:09 am #55378David:
Many of the older books that I have recommend Naptha as a degreaser. Before the EPA got into things, you could go buy other chemicals that were also good. I’ve seen some folks using break cleaner but itβs only available in aerosol cans now (you might be able to buy it in 55 gallon drums). I also use Naptha and like you I buy mine by the gallon.
Later,
TomJanuary 19, 2014 at 7:08 am #55379Tom,
What can I say. Great minds think alike.
I pulled an old watch apart last week and the oil dried up turning into microscopic globs of white wax. When I removed the shock mount jewels, the cavity was filled with this stuff. After running it through my ultrasonic machine (using Naptha) the wax still wouldn’t come out. I purchased an old L&R rotary cleaning machine off of Ebay but it hasn’t come in yet. I am thinking that due to the longer process time it may do a more thorough job disolving that stuff. Gasolene will probably get rid of it but I would not dare run gasolene in an ultrasonic machine. I may also experiment with some other techniques like boiling the plates in water mixed with liquid detergent. I guess I will find out what works the best at some point.
davidJanuary 19, 2014 at 7:50 am #55380Hey guys, Tom, I found out that napa sells brake cleaner in gallons. David, if you decide to man up, please dont put that speedo back on π Chris, I have the same preference in pocket watches, the big heavy clunky ones, Excellent post, I like the way you are doing it, you have given me some ideas, thank you William
January 19, 2014 at 9:09 am #55381I’ve scrubbed the really filthy ones in ones in a glass dish of One-Dip, then run them through my heated ultrasonic.
At times I’ve had to repeat the process to get every last bitIt’s amazing how much “stuff” can get cemented to the movement parts over time.
I know that the oldtimers would mix beeswax and oil to apply around the cases rims to seal pocket watches from moisture.
Maybe some of them went overboard on the amount, and it migrated over time onto the plates, etc…especially if they were exposed to lots of heat ?January 19, 2014 at 9:19 am #55382Randy,
I have also seen this in new watches that are made in China. I suspect that it is a component in the watch oil that was used. As the solvent in the oil evaporates it solidifies over time leaving the white chuncks of “wax” behind. One Dip will probably disolve this stuff but it sure is expensive.
davidJanuary 19, 2014 at 12:10 pm #55383@david pierce wrote:
Chris,
Zippo lighter fluid is Naptha. I buy it by the gallon from a home improvement store over here called HOME DEPOT. When I mentioned that I used it to clean watch parts on the NAWCC forum it started a barage of nasty comments. One guy flashed his ROLEX credentials in my face and told me I “needed to man up and use L&R cleaner”. My thought when I saw the comment was ROLEX does not have a jerk filter when they issue their credentials. I have been using it in an ultrasonic cleaner and have been pleased with the way it works. I recently purchased a conventional L&R old time propeller/jar machine but it hasn’t come in yet. I somehow feel vindicated to see someone else using Naptha to clean watch parts.
davidDavid, I got the same response on NAWCC when I “admitted” to using naptha on a guys post, who was also using it, but I still use it anyway because it works well π
I also read in the old timers books that they used naptha, cyanide and a veritable array of dangerous and nasty chemicals that…worked. I’m not saying that it’s right, but individuals are allowed to make their own choices based on their experience and needs.
I suppose I can understand how those working professionally in the watch repair trade would frown at such “garden shed” methods, after all, soaking a 12,000+ euro rolex in zippo, kinda sounds bad π But a nice relaxing day at the L&R spa, soaking in specially formulated solutions that will moisturize and rejuvenate your prize… that sounds acceptable and eases the stress of being without your watch for a few days.I actually really, really like the cleaning part, I get great pleasure and satisfaction from hand cleaning and polishing, I found that the ultra-sonic took that away, so that is one of the reasons I stopped using it for watches.
I’ll spend hours, days, just on the cleaning part, and whereas it isn’t economical, the joy is priceless and I feel that this is what counts more than anything, for me.I’m happy that I could inspire some new ideas, thank you for sharing that, makes my fun feel more useful
Chris
January 19, 2014 at 12:34 pm #55384@david pierce wrote:
Randy,
I have also seen this in new watches that are made in China. I suspect that it is a component in the watch oil that was used. As the solvent in the oil evaporates it solidifies over time leaving the white chuncks of “wax” behind. One Dip will probably disolve this stuff but it sure is expensive.
davidI’ve seen that on watches that a friend of mine collects.
He tries to COA them, but uses oil that sets up not unlike spar varnish.
I keep trying to talk him out of using it, and buying something decent.
I’ve redone a few of them for him. π―I re-use the the One-Dip for instances like these, as I’m following it up w/ L&R.
When I run out,..I think that I’m just going to buy Carbon-Tetrachloride….I think that’s basically all it is…
Best,
Randy
January 19, 2014 at 12:37 pm #55385@Randy wrote:
I’ve scrubbed the really filthy ones in ones in a glass dish of One-Dip, then run them through my heated ultrasonic.
At times I’ve had to repeat the process to get every last bitIt’s amazing how much “stuff” can get cemented to the movement parts over time.
I know that the oldtimers would mix beeswax and oil to apply around the cases rims to seal pocket watches from moisture.
Maybe some of them went overboard on the amount, and it migrated over time onto the plates, etc…especially if they were exposed to lots of heat ?Randy I meant to say that I had the same thought, about seals, and as a liquid/paste type will never last and may contaminate, I was thinking about making my own seals, either for the case lids, or for around the dust seals.
There is a product, damned if I can remember the name right now, that we used in industry to make a temporary seal/0-ring in an emergency, it was a black paste that dried gray in color, similar to silicone, but not adhesive, you would squeeze it into a recess, put the lid back on whatever you are sealing, 5 mins later, pull the lid, cut of the access, and you’d have a temporary o ring, kinda like a rubber mold. π‘I was thinking of doing this to the case lid, it should make a nice flat seal ring formed to the shape. My other idea was to form a simple o-ring..
Just playing π
January 19, 2014 at 3:29 pm #55386Was it “Formagasket”or something like that Chris ??
I remember the stuff, but not sure of the nameRandy
January 20, 2014 at 1:49 am #55387Nope, it wasn’t formagasket Randy, although that word brings back memories of having my fingers covered with that black gunk back in the late 70s when I last used it, not to forget its cousin permatex, same stuff only green haha
This was much cleaner and I’m damned if I can remember the brand. I’ll have to contact the boyz at the plant and get the name.
Fist the hair goes then the memory
Chris
January 20, 2014 at 7:09 am #55388Guys:
Because I am so broke from buying tools and machines , I’m just using the seven jar method described in the Chicago School fo Watchmaking, lesson #10. I clean everything that way with the exception of the dial, the mainspring (which I replace), the hairspring (I use One Dip), and shellaced-in jewels (I run them through everything but the alcohol).
I found the green soap here:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000R8K9B0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=U0YONHI6WD7C&coliid=I2ZQCJ1ZI5XMG6I like David’s Naptha/Ultrasonic method and plan to eventually go that way unless he finds the L&R machine to be superior. Until then, I’ll just keep slogging along the old fashioned way.
Later,
Tom -
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