- This topic is empty.
-
A quick look inside the shaft housing, or sleeve, the part that has the micrometer, shows the typical finish or unfinish 😆
This is supposed to be a precise measurement regulator, but when turned, it was rough to the feel. So how can something that measures 0.01mm be accurate with these issue found so far
:ere is what the bore looked like prior to cleaning..
And the shaft that shows rusting to the run through part and a rough texture to the functional ends..
Another go around with fine emery cloth and you can see and feel the difference as the smooth mirror finish that it’s supposed to have finally appears
This one is done and dusted, but I have to repeat this procedure on all of the parts..
Next I’ve applied and anti-corrosion treatment to the runner part of the shaft, this needs to be done to prevent further oxidation as this part, once the base has been bolted down, will be difficult to access, so I want it to be protected.
After the soak, I’ll lightly clean it and apply a thin coat or anti rust primer paint to that area..
Now to clean up the bores of the regulator/adjusting micrometer sleeves.
I have a tiny spring loaded hone that has 2000 grit stones, it is just for polishing bores, but unfortunately it didn’t fit Hmm.So I had to modify a Dremmel wire wheel. After this process I used a leather polishing wheel with some compound. It worked ok and the result was a lot better than original..
As you can see in the first photo, there was zero lubricant in this area, so running out of the box would have eventually destroyed any accuracy..
The gear teeth showed rust and were kinda rough, again, you cannot blame the Chinese manufacturers. It is at the request of those companies who go to China, make a deal for a low cost machine in order to make a profit for their business.
I know from experience with Chinese turbines that they are entirely capable of fine finish work, to exact dimensions.I was thinking that with the amount of my own labor, that if these machines had been finished, that the end cost to us, would be at least another $800 – $ 1200, by the retailer, which would put these rigs a little out of reach for most hobbyist.
Here it is disassembled and ready for the spa day. The snap rings used are also very cheap, when you remove them they stay deformed, so I’ll have to search for some proper hardened steel clips..
After much wire brushing and sanding, it has an acceptable smooth finish.
I had to make a profile sander out of wood in order to polish between the teeth, a simple V with emery cloth attached worked well and removed the rough/high spots…
That was basically an 11 hr day 😆 All this takes time and as per my previous comment, that would definitely increase the cost.
I’m also considering replacing the cheap ball bearings in the feed handles as these ones are basically tin with balls 😮 Problem is, finding replacements.So to end my day I removed the fine feed worm gear assembly and left it to soak up the joy which is cleaning fluid…
These bearings enjoyed a bit of grease but again, the shaft had rust, the worm is rough and the sleeves are dry and uneven…
Just a little update so you don’t think that I’m making puppies and not working 😆
Today I repaired the slight damage to the Z axis top mounting block taper pins. If you remember I had a +%#** time removing the whole assembly.
Well, the reason was that the two top pins had been hammered in so tight that love nor prayer could remove them. So I basically had to pull the block off the large end of the taper, I know 👿So the pins were stuck inside, I tried heat around the area…NADA. So I cut off the bent part of one, and then I ground them down in place. I think they used hardened steel pins because my grinding wheel wouldn’t touch them. I had to use a carbide grinding bit. So the block now fits over the pins with just a slight tap, enough.
I also cleaned up the lower pins which came out ok, you can see them sitting on the cross support..
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.