Elgin 16s 573 winding mechanism…

[tmac1956]

All:

I’m trying to find an image or exploded view showing the lever set winding mechanism for an Elgin 16s grade 573. Apparently, there is stud that fixes the lever setting which is missing. This one came without a dial. I’ve looked online, in Swigart’s, and Chicago School of watchmaking. For all I can see, there’s some sort of stud around which the setting level rotates. The hole’s not threaded so it can only be a stud that’s missing. I’m stumped.

Here’s the picture before disassembly – the red cloud indicated where some sort of anchorage should be.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Tom

[tmac1956]

All

I watched one of Bunn Special’s videos and found one that looks very close to the mechanism that I have. I am missing a part – just as I suspected.

Good old Bunn Special – he helped me out again.

Thanks!
Tom

[bernie weishapl]

The picture I saw looked like the same part you show and may have the stud in it. Not sure though.

[arutha]

I think it is the setting lever screw you have missing, its the small screw you back off to pull the stem out.
Should look something like this

• This reply was modified 3 years ago by Tamas Richard.

[randy]

I think that Paul nailed it !

[tmac1956]

Paul:

Yes that appears to be missing. But there is also part that sets atop of the lever arm itself that shows in the second picture. What is that part called?

Oh… thanks for the picture – now I know what to look for!

Thanks!
Tom

[Bob Tascione]

Hey Tom,
Still on my first cup of coffee this morning so might be wrong but…I think that would be the setting lever.
Bob

[tmac1956]

Bob:

That’s it – I just found it in the Swigart’s catalogue. It’s called the “Lever Setting Winding Arbor Locator for Lever Set”. I think I need to really buy the Elgin catalogue that you recommended.

Thanks!
Tom

[tmac1956]

All:

It looks like I’ll have to make the part shown in the second photo. I have an assortment of spring steel shim sheets, however, I don’t know what thickness to use. If anyone has this part and can mic it for me that would certainly be helpful. Alternately, a good guess wood be good too. I’m just trying to get the mechanism fixed so that I can continue with Bob about the pallet stones.

Thanks!
Tom

[david pierce]

Tom,
The part only needs to be thick enough to do the job it is supposed to do. A good start would be the same thickness of the part it engages with. I am going on the assumption that the part is a cam lever and not a spring. If the part is a spring then spring steel would be the best choice. The drawback is, spring steel is almost impossible to machine with drills and end mill cutters. It stamps ok and can be ground as long as you don’t overheat the metal. If the part is a cam lever brass should work fine as the part is part of the keyless works and will only be used occasionally when setting and/or winding.
david

[tmac1956]

David:

The piece in the photo actually helps hold the setting level in place by sitting on top of it and gives the detent screw something to thread into. The screw just runs through the setting lever and threads into the piece which then pulls it up against the plate.

Thanks,
Tom

[david pierce]

Tom,
Then it is just a clamp. Make it out of something easy to machine with the tools you have. Brass should work well as a clamp.
david

[tmac1956]

David:

Yes – brass should be easy to work.

Thanks!
Tom

[david pierce]

Tom,
I am sure that you will figure out the best way to make the part with what you already have, but I would like to throw a few suggestions your way. You can make a pattern out of thick paper or thin cardboard and trim it to size with sissors. Then glue the pattern to a piece of sheet brass. You can then saw and file the piece to the pattern. Another approach you may want to try is to use your milling machine to make vertical plunge cuts around the curved contours and conventional mill the straight portions of the part.
david

[Bob Tascione]

Hi Tom and David,
Thought I would jump in here with a suggestion. I would personally stick with steel for this part since the piece is fairly thin leaving space for only a couple of threads. This part is already prone to stripping which may be the reason that it’s missing. Davids idea of using a piece of paper or cardboard is a good one. The part can be made by first drilling and tapping the hole and then either filing to fit or filing to the shape of the template. The thickness isn’t too critical but I would make it as thick as possible. As long as it doesn’t interfere with the back of the dial.
Hope this helps,
Bob

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