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June 19, 2013 at 2:54 pm #48644
Good evening all. I have stripped cleaned and am now rebuilding the movement on an Enfield 8 day chiming mantle clock
which Paul helped me strip on his visit to me. All pivots and bushing completed, new springs for drive and strike train. drive chain working OK on winding but a problem with the arbor in the barrel of the strike train is giving me a problem. I have watched Bob’s video and followed his instructions about bending the spring to fit onto the catch on the arbor. winding the strike train up for a test I get a loud click and no wind. I stripped the movement and removed the cover of strike barrel , removed the spring and checked all fine with the spring, rewound spring back in barrel followed Bob’s instructions again. refitted barrel cover assembled the movement again and low and behold a loud click and no wind. stripped all again for third time and reassembled to get the same thing. I sure could do with some advise as I was hoping to get this movement put on the test stand. All advise would be very welcome.
AlanJune 19, 2013 at 3:54 pm #53736willofiamModerator
Hey Alan, just thinking about your winding prob. is the mainspring catching the barrel? and I hope this isnt too stupid of a question but I though I should ask it anyway, is it winding in the right direction? I had once put a barrel together wrong, it fit into the movement and everything and did the same thing your describing, cant remember exactly how I did it but I do remember dealing with that. WilliamJune 20, 2013 at 1:37 am #53737
Hi William, the spring is in the right way round and its not catching on the barrel. On inserting the arbor it grips the spring fine, put on barrel cap and reassemble
refit the clicks and give it a wind. strange knock and no wind. The mainspring replaced in barrel exactly the same , no problem. I will strip the strike out again, remove spring and wait till I can see if someone has any ideas. This is my first clock repair so a little lost, but I’m getting there, It has been a long process of trial and error when rebuilding the movement. the biggest problem has been the strike star wheel and getting that upside down. I kept looking at it and after a while I managed to work it out. When this barrel problem is solved I will then assemble the front plate, I have a question about the cannon pinion . when knocking it back onto the centre arbor how far down the arbor should it go. Should it be fitted right up to the shoulder or just before? Well I guess I’ll wait for the responses about the barrel but in the meantime I will carry on restoring the case. It has been totally stripped of all the old lacquer and wax and back to bare wood. as this is my own clock
this will not be re lacquered but rubbed in with a couple of dozen coat’s of gun stock oil to bring out the natural finish of the wood.
Well best get on, thanks for your help William it’s good to hear from you. Will post more pictures of the shop soon, still a bit of work to do.
AlanJune 22, 2013 at 10:45 am #53738Bob TascioneModerator
Getting a new mainsprings inner coil to catch the arbor hook can be a challenge at times. If you have a mainspring winder you can try fully winding the spring. This can often form the coil well enough to catch the mainspring arbor hook afterwards.
Hope this helps,
BobJune 22, 2013 at 11:22 am #53739willofiamModerator
Hi Alan, when you wind it I am assuming it takes a couple of winds before is actually “knocks” like you say, it is possible it is not catching the barrel tab on the outer part of the mainspring, this has to catch properly, How are you putting the mainspring back in? by hand or a winder? if by hand you have to make sure it is catching before putting the rest of the mainspring in as once the rest is in it can hinder the ability for it to catch, if using a winder with a sleeve you can spin it in there and make sure it catches before releasing the spring into the barrel. as far as the star cam and cannon pinion, I put that back on “close” but check as you go with the snail/cannon piece to make sure it sits BELOW the shoulder where the minute hand attaches (having a brain fart on nomenclature), for example if you put the minute hand on and tighten it up it should not touch the cannon pipe or else the clock will not run proper. you do not want it to tight to the plate either. hope that makes sense, and remember you cant get frustrated until I do, O.K.?. Keep on keepin on Alan. WilliamJune 22, 2013 at 12:32 pm #53740
Hi William, I stripped the barrel down again and replaced the spring back in, It was loaded into the barrel OK. The problem was on the arbor, It had a very small piece out of the catch which was causing it to slip. this was only visible through a 5 loupe. I changed the arbor and all is fine. I am winding springs by hand at the moment as my spring winder is still being made by a local engineer from the plans of Joe Collins, its being made in Aluminium. It should be ready on Tuesday. Thanks for the tip on the canon pinion. I am getting there (slowly slowly catchy monkey) Really enjoying this fantastic hobby. Someday I hope to repair and restore other peoples clocks, but that’s in the future. I have 8 clocks to do and 7 pocket watches and 5 wrist watches. Some donated to me others bought as non runners from ebay. My latest acquisition was the German carriage clock (photo’s posted) and a German Cuckoo Clock with a slipped going train chain, so it needs sorting but the Cuckoo and stike side is working fine. I will probably need advice on that when the time comes. Well must get on as times moving on and my workshop is calling.
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