Balance tack

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  • #49201
    namonllor1953
    Participant
    • Topics Started: 21
    • Total Posts: 152

    Hi guys,
    Hope everyone’s doing well today.
    Question…I made a balance tack and was wondering, how tall are they supposed to be.
    I have a base of 1 1/4″ aluminum and the point stands at 2 1/4″ from the table top.
    I used aluminum for the base, brass for the sock and 1/8″ drill rod for the point.

    #59237
    namonllor1953
    Participant
    • Topics Started: 21
    • Total Posts: 152

    By the way…the reason for making the balance tack is because I came across an Ingersoll Reliance movement (not working) for like 10 bucks and free shipping so, I jumped on it.
    I figure I can compare the Elgins innards and the Ingersolls innards and actually study what’s supposed to be happening and then try to figure out why its not working.

    #59238
    namonllor1953
    Participant
    • Topics Started: 21
    • Total Posts: 152

    Here are the photos of the Ingersoll

    #59239
    arutha
    Participant
    • Topics Started: 85
    • Total Posts: 1536

    The ingersoll will be a good one to learn on Ren, because they are not jewelled they can wear on the pivots and pivot holes, this might mean to get it running well you may need to do some bushing and pivot polishing. If you don’t want to go that far then you can at least use it to practice getting it apart and back together and who knows it might run fine and have minimal wear.
    With regards to the balance tack, mine is about 3.5 inches high and i did the same as you and made my own.
    Keep us updated on your progress Ren :)
    Paul.

    #59240
    willofiam
    Moderator
    • Topics Started: 75
    • Total Posts: 1437

    Hey Ren, all the tacks I have seen and used the point was made from brass (possibly to keep from scratching things), as far as height I am not sure of a standard, mine are 1 1/2 inches tall BUT the points or shafts are different diameters, there are times I prefer one over the other depending on the balance cock mounting screw hole size. Also I like to put something soft underneath , I use a block of Styrofoam for a protective barrier, when I release the hairspring it doesnt drop onto a hard surface and the Styrofoam takes up space so the balance does not drop, it just kind of lays onto it protecting the staff pivots. I have heard some others prefer not to use a tack and disassemble the balance assembly upside down, I like that idea but I do struggle with turning the assembly over for fear of stretching or kinking the hairspring, I have not yet but just me being over cautious. 🙄 William
    P.S. Ren, have you acquired and books on repair?

    #59241
    namonllor1953
    Participant
    • Topics Started: 21
    • Total Posts: 152

    Hey William,

    So far I’ve purchased:
    The Modern Clock and The Watchmakers Lathe by Goodrich
    Practical Watch Repairing by De Carle
    The Top 300 Trade Secrets of a Master Clockmaker by Huckabee
    Clockmaking and Modelmaking tools and Techniques by W. R. Smith
    Building an American Clock Movement by Steven Conover

    I’ve also downloaded both the Joseph Bulova Watchmaking Course and the Chicago School of Watchmaking Home Study Course. Plus I’m signed up with Bob’s clock and watch repair course.

    What am I missing???

    #59242
    willofiam
    Moderator
    • Topics Started: 75
    • Total Posts: 1437

    Sounds like a nice group of books, I have on hand and read them all except one…, I really like Huckabees straight forward practical approach to things…. I have not seen Conovers book on building a clock movement, what do you think of it? If working on clocks I would recommend Conovers striking clock repair guide. William

    #59243
    namonllor1953
    Participant
    • Topics Started: 21
    • Total Posts: 152

    It’s actually the very first book I purchased. It’s a good book but, I found myself joing his forum so as to really get a better hand on what he was talking about.
    In all fairness, it was his book that led me to believe that there was more to clocks and watches than what that book was going to give me. I’ve put it aside for now and have begun the actual study of horology and timepiece repair/making. I’m not the kind of guy who just puts stuff together and says ” Look at what I did”. I prefer understanding the “what’s and why’s of what I’m doing, in case anyone asks a question, I can actually answer it without have to guess or say “I DUNNO”.
    I will get back to it though and finish building the movement. Ren

    #59244
    bernie weishapl
    Participant
    • Topics Started: 58
    • Total Posts: 1218

    On my tack which by the way is 2″ tall I used a piece of foam about 1/8″ thick slipped over the tack so if hairspring falls it will be on foam just like William does with his stryofoam.

    #59245
    gerene
    Participant
    • Topics Started: 16
    • Total Posts: 377

    My tack is 30 mm high, aluminium base and brass tack.

    Jan

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namonllor1953Balance tack