Another Cleaning Solution Thread

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  • #49897
    chaplin37
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    • Topics Started: 90
    • Total Posts: 175

    I know that there has been tons of threads on cleaning solution, my question is what do people use as a homemade secondary rinse? I use totally awesome to initially clean my clock parts and I believe I read or saw something about using denatured alcohol as a secondary rinse, but wasnt too sure if that would eat away at the lacquer. I’m guessing naptha is probably the best to use as a secondary rinse?

    #64247
    arutha
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    • Topics Started: 85
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    I use dish soap and hot water and then rinse again with just water and dry immediately. It could also depend on what you have in your cleaning solution as to why you would use any other liquid as a rinse. I understand some people try to stay “waterless” as the idea of putting water anywhere near steel does seem to go against logical thinking but if done quickly and with a suitable method for drying rust should not be a problem. I have yet to have a problem.
    Paul.

    #64248
    brianw
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    • Topics Started: 21
    • Total Posts: 109

    I’ve been using Isopropyl Alcohol or sometimes called Isopropanol but after reading Paul’s reply I wonder if I am doing the right thing. It has always seemed to me that if you get the metal dry quickly, rust should not form as it needs moisture.
    I’ve been using the alcohol to be on the safe side, but is it worth the cost?
    Brian

    #64249
    stevefitzwater
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    • Topics Started: 48
    • Total Posts: 385

    I use Zip cleaner as my cleaner, then a hot water rinse, then I place the parts into a DNA soak for 5 minutes, then transfer to a 2nd DNA soak for 10 minutes, then warm air dry.

    #64250
    chaplin37
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    • Topics Started: 90
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    what is a DNA soak?

    #64251
    stevefitzwater
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    • Topics Started: 48
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    DeNatured Alcohol

    #64252
    bernie weishapl
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    • Topics Started: 58
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    I also use zip cleaner and have been for several years. Cleans extremely well. I rinse with water, then water again to make sure I get the parts rinsed well. My final rinse is denatured alcohol. I have been using this method now for over 25 yrs. The DNA will remove all water from the clock parts and then goes into the dryer. I don’t soak my clock parts except just enough I can be sure the water is gone.

    #64253
    digitaltripper
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    • Topics Started: 17
    • Total Posts: 102

    Denatured Alcohol = Lacquer removal, jewel removal if movement left in it over time.

    A quick dunk in Denatured Alcohol to remove water, then straight to the dryer, works great.

    Paul’s method works well too but I am open to trying different cleaners.

    Where do I find the zip cleaner?

    I currently use LR cleaner and rinse in my egg beater (L&R three jar type machine) which = $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

    Jim

    #64254
    bernie weishapl
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    • Topics Started: 58
    • Total Posts: 1218

    I find the orange zip cleaner at ACE Hardware. I buy it buy the case.

    #64255
    stevefitzwater
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    • Topics Started: 48
    • Total Posts: 385

    the local Lowes carries it here, up to 5 gallon buckets of it.

    When I say a DNA soak, I guess the “soak” term is to vague, the clock parts remain in the DNA for a few minutes at most, the sole intent is to displace any water that might remain on the parts following the rinse, the two soaks are because the first DNA bath will displace 98% of the water remaining, the second is to ensure a 100% removal of all water (better the do a second then find corrosion on a part afterwards).

    For watch parts, I prefer to use my L&R cleaners, the cleaning solution goes into a quart canning jar, and I place the basket into the jar and seal it, then I float it in my large ultra sonic cleaner, then remove the basket and run it through my L&R Varimatic with 3 rinse and a dry.

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chaplin37Another Cleaning Solution Thread