- This topic is empty.
-
Bernie, both Ren & Kevin are correct BUT but but but 😆
There are 4 jaw independent chucks but like their three jaw cousins, the accuracy is only as good as the manufacture, so a REEEALLLLY good 3 jaw chuck that will cost you $$ will have a bare minimum of inaccuracy. I know our guys use very good 3 jaw chucks in the big lathes, and they still have to dial the work in.
I’m not sure of the size of your lathe but
as Ren says, a 4 jaw chuck gives you much more control over your run-out, but, again, you need a good dial indicator, better two, and mag bases. A 4 jaw independent will also allow you to hold a piece where the part to be machined is off center, you can adjust each jaw to center an offset hole in a plate, for example.
That being said, you can always rough align it with the tailstock before using the dials, you can get very close to zero with that method, depending how much play is in your lathe etc etcPersonally, I would go for the 4 jaw, the best that the budget of the last quarter of 2014 can allow, it will work well and your great, great grand kids will be really happy you did, because they will use it
Just my two bits..
Thanks again to all. Chris I was looking for something fairly simple in a metal chuck as I am going to use it on my Taig lathe. I don’t want to break the bank at my age but didn’t want cheap either. I will check into dial indicators but I know they are not cheap either. I know on my Taig with a point in the headstock and the tailstock the alignment is dead on. The last cap I did I used the point in my tailstock into the hole of the cap then clamped it down with the chuck I borrowed. It came out really well and has been working now for over a year. I did check the barrel and 2nd wheel with my depthing tool. It came out pretty accurately.
Ok so now I guess I start looking at dial indicators and new chuck. Chris I told my wife it is your fault that I need to spend our retirement nest egg. Been married to her for 47 yrs and if I were you I would be finding a fox hole my friend. 😆 😆 She is a mean one when she is upset. I only upset her once in 47 yrs. 😆
yeah yeah Bernie, blame the guy that’s 8k clicks away 😆 I understand though, I used a few of you all as an excuse for the mill expenditure 🙄
Damn handy these forums
Hi Bernie,
Not too sure about the accuracy of the Taig 3 jaw but if it’s anything like the Sherline then it’s more than adequate for staying within tolerances for boring clock barrels and caps. Four jaw is nice to have, especially if you would like to do some offset work but not necessary for the job you’re going to do. If you’re going to buy a chuck anyway so that you’ll have step jaws and you think you’ll have a need for a 4 jaw then now’s the time!
I don’t remember if you told me whether you had a mill or not but if you do it’s pretty easy to make some soft jaws for your existing chuck in which you can then either bore or turn your steps depending on whether you’re after concave or convex clamping. In fact I would think that Taig would sell soft jaws for their chucks. Should be pretty cheap if they do. I’ll check.Also if you’re not in any hurry to spend money right now then you can always make up a spacer that fits in the 3 jaw behind the work piece which will do away with the need for your step jaws for now (unless you’re wanting the step jaws to allow for larger diameter rather than chuck face clearance and workpiece support) . I’ll find a pic of a spacer online and will put a link up here to it for you to see. VERY easy to make.
I’ll be baaaack!Enjoy!
BobBernie,
Here’s a couple of links to two different types. Anything flat that will fit behind the work piece and cannot fly out of the chuck will pretty much work. You can bore a hole in the one type shown to allow for clearance for your drill and boring bar.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.