16s Watch movement

[bernie weishapl]

Have a question. Haven’t had to find out but I have a couple of watch movements that I need cases for. One a 17j and one a 15j. Can I buy a couple of any 16s watch cases or is there something I should be aware of. I bought these two movements to get back into fixing watch and get my feet wet again but they came out so nice I just thought I would put them in a decent case. Just curious.

[chris mabbott]

@Bernie Weishapl wrote:

Can I buy a couple of any 16s watch cases or is there something I should be aware of.

Bernie. YES, the 1000 other guys breathing down your neck to outbid you 😆

“Nearly” all of the cases I’ve replaced need a little tweaking Bernie, but right now, with morning brain, I can’t think of anything other than the obvious, which you already know.. The main obvious is that Euro cases and American PWs don’t play well together, at least not all the time.

[bernie weishapl]

Thanks Chris. I figured they probably could with some tweeking. I lost 5 bids yesterday afternoon and evening. Nice cases and all went for nearly $85 each. I finally got a silverode case for $38. Don’t know how well it will shine up but looked to be in decent shape. I just finished a 16s 15j Elgin which was one of my practice units and it turned out rather nicely so thought I would case it. The dial has no cracks or hairlines and the hands are great. I have one more 16s 7j that I will start on but don’t need a $100 case for it. I have a 12s 15j I need to have a crystal put in. Then it is just starting the repairs, clean and oil.

Also ran across another guy selling movements he has taken out of cases. He will list a 16s Illinois case and the next listing is a 16s GF case. I offered him a combined price for both and he declined saying he makes way more money separating them. Just makes me sick.

[chris mabbott]

The only thing that has value Bernie is….. Money 😥 we can kiss historical value and sentiment Bubbye..

There have been some very accurate predictions made by various authors over the past 80 years pertaining to this very thing, based on how to control a mass populace and what a government /system can do to attain it.
Obviously the first is to control the money, how? You increase then decrease its value based on our monetary system, the gold standard.

Secondly, you eventually remove all forms of hard currency, i.e. no bills, as in credit and electronic money, which then becomes basically numbers to be played with.. No more hiding money under your mattress.

Thirdly, just get everyone in so much debt that they don’t have time to think about anything but work.

Fourth, use various forms of fear to apply unreasonable actions upon the populace. Example, all deposits and withdrawals now have to meet various controls to prevent “money laundering” every penny you spend or deposit is noted.

Fifth, divide and conquer, create many individual teams, in the form of… them and us, and pit them against each other, thereby preventing anarchy, complaints and unified opinions on a mass scale.

Sixth, control the mass media and use it to create more fear..

This has nothing to do with cases but when you mentioned the guy splitting up case/movement, it reminded me of these articles 😆

[bernie weishapl]

I absolutely agree Chris. It is all about money today. There is no more sentimental value to grandpa’s or dad’s old pocket watch or grandma’s old kitchen/black mantel clock. Everything is plastic and throw away. As my granddad told me one day before he passed that I was probably in the last line of having things mean something. He said the saddest thing for him was nothing meant anything anymore.

Not going to belabor the subject except to say that at least here people are getting tired of press, controlling people and bypassing laws. I could/can see a revolution coming down the road. I think people are getting fed up with being manipulated. Anyway thank you Chris. Appreciate my friend.

[namonllor1953]

Yyupp!!!

[maitai11]

Hi Guys,

Bernie, the best and most up-to-date information I have to offer you on eBay bidding is, DON’T bid until the last minute or so. Otherwise, bidding three days out artificially inflates the price. I guess Chris could make an argument that it’s going to go for what it’s worth no matter what, but I’ll tell you from experience that I got priced out REALLY QUICKLY in some of my early bids. Make the bidder think they’re the man, and them scoop them up at the last minute.

On one item recently, I waited until about the 25 second mark with 35 seconds to go, and there were three more bids after that – all within 35 seconds, AND, I put in a higher bid within that 30 seconds as well. Crazy. I won that, but only because I didn’t have fat fingers that day. This was on the “hundreds and hundreds” of pocket watch screws – I bought it for about 30 bucks.

And Chris, aren’t you getting a little paranoid there, buddy? KIDDING! Everything you said is basically true. If you want to throw in a little Federal Reserve, fiat currency, and the Illuminati, this discussion could get REALLY interesting REALLY fast!!!

Best,

Tim

[bernie weishapl]

Tim I have bid in the last few seconds but I just guess I don’t bid high enough. I have found I get more deals in the buy it now section or make offer. I got the 400 day I posted for $30. He wanted $45 or best offer. I offered $30 and he took it. So that is another avenue.

[maitai11]

Hi Bernie,

Sorry – here’s the caveat: when bidding at the end, put in YOUR MAXIMUM BID. Here’s how it works (for anyone who might not know):

Lets say there’s a nice Illinois 21 Jewel Sangamo Railroad-grade pocket watch for bid. Let’s also say that the WINNING BID is $135.00, and in the last hour, bid increments go up $2.50 per bid. So, the incremental order of MANUAL BIDS would be something like this (we’ll start at $100):

Watchman – $100.00 High Bidder
Watchlady – $102.50 High Bidder
Bernie – $105.00 – High Bidder, and so on.

If you only go incrementally by $2.50, then it’s going to end up being the bidder with the fastest fingers who wins the Sangamo. Now, let’s see how you’re going to win this watch, and leave the others in the dust:

1. In the LAST 60 SECONDS or LESS (for me, the last 30 seconds,) enter your MAXIMUM BID. In this case, it would be $150, because you REALLY want this watch, and you’re willing to go UP TO, but NOT OVER $150.

2. If someone outbids you WITH THEIR AUTOMATIC MAXIMUM BID, you can TRY TO ENTER A HIGHER BID if you WANT TO. That is totally up to you, and how much desire you have to get the watch. Here is what the winning bid would look like if you were the only bidder with a MAXIMUM BID. The others are MANUAL BIDDING…It looks something like this:

Current bid – $105.00 – Bernie Highest Bid

Joe Blow Watchman – $107.50 – Highest Bidder
AUTOBID – BERNIE – $110.00 – Highest Bidder
Jennywatch – $112.50 – Highest Bidder
AUTOBID – BERNIE – $115.00 – Highest Bidder

Joe Blow Watchman – $125.00 Highest Bidder (WHOA, HE’S JUMP BIDDING THE OTHERS)
AUTOBID – BERNIE – $127.50 Highest Bidder (BUT YOU JUST OUTBID HIM WITH YOUR AUTOBID)
Jenny watch – $132.50 – Highest Bidder (She’s trying to outflank you, but you have a…)

3 – 2 – 1 !!!!!!!!!

AUTOBID – BERNIE – $135.00 Highest Bidder YOU WON THE AUCTION!!!! Enjoy your Sangamo Pocket Watch!!! (MAXIMUM BID OF $150.00!!! Beat out Jenny Watch)

Here’s what happened:

1. Since you put in a maximum bid of $135.00 you AUTOMATICALLY outbid everyone less than $150.00 – your maximum bid was $150.00
2. eBay is smart – they know we want a good deal, so even though you are WILLING to pay $150.00, there are NO BIDDERS HIGHER THAN $132.50 – Therefore, your AUTOBID of $2.50 per bid is ALL eBay WOULD INCREASE YOUR BID BY, BECAUSE OF THE INCREMENTAL RULE.

You just won the watch with a STRATEGY, and the others were having fat finger syndrome and were scrambling trying to think!!!

Again Bernie, this is for you, or anyone else who might want to understand eBay better…

Best,

Tim

EDIT: Yes Bernie, I have done well with the buy it now/best offer method. Check to see if the method I listed would help you in any way with bidding

[gerene]

Hi Tim,

I like your description of working with ebay. I suppose it works most of the time and is good if you really want the object.
My strategy for buying on ebay (which I do from time to time) is to look at the object, determine the maximum I want to pay for it and enter that as my maximum bid. After that I do not even look at it any more untill I get an email saying that I won or lost the item.
This way I will not be tempted to raise the bid above my estimated value. If it goes higher, bad luck. There will be other apportunities comming up soon.
I admit, it takes away the thrill of bidding but it is nicer for my bank account

Jan

[chris mabbott]

Tim, you bought the eBay guide on How to Win an Auction didn’t you, admit it 😆

[bernie weishapl]

Chris that is good. 😆 I understand Tim and it has worked at times and other times not. Generally in the last 60 seconds I put what I want to pay for the item. Sometimes I do like Jan. I know what I will pay and put that amount in. If I get a email saying I won that’s good and if not well that’s the way it goes.

[maitai11]

Yeah, Guys – Whooooooo!!! eBay can have a heck of an effect on the adrenalin if you’re watching it in real-time. Jan – I, too, have been tempted to put in a higher bid – and eBay makes CERTAIN to make you feel like THE MAN when you’re the highest bidder. Your bidding strategy of putting in your maximum bid, and then walking away is valid, and would allow for the bidding-up process to make you the highest bidder until it goes over your max bid. However, if you put in your max bid on day one, you will almost have a situation where others out there want to compete – versus, say putting it in a minute before the auction ends. This is my preference only, but it just makes sense not to bid until the very last minute – that way, others don’t have the time to be tempted, too

Chris – I’ll sell it to you for ten bucks…

Best,

Tim

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