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April 21, 2017 at 5:28 am #49923
I’ll start off by saying that I am as new to working with clock as can be, but I’ve inherited 8 antique clocks from my father who was a steelworker, and then antique dealer, auctioneer and part-time clock repairer. I bought Bob’s DVD course many years ago and finally got around to watching, then I found this site, bought the online course and have been vigorously reading online and the many books that my dad had. Fortunately he also had many tools which I’ve been working on returning to serviceable condition. Wish he had a good Ollie Baker or Webster winder and a bushing tool, but I’m guessing that he must have done that work by hand. For several months, I’ve been watching the courses on DVD and online, joined NAWCC and have read much on both this site and the NAWCC message board in an effort to learn more about this fascinating field.
So anyway, my first bit of advice concerns a Union Manufacturing Co. Ogee clock that he had and apparently had done nothing with it prior to his passing. It was very rough, but I got it cleaned and running, though I have to revisit the strike side because sometimes the locking lever doesn’t engage on the locking cam, and it doesn’t consistently do it at the same time of day.
But my question concerns the inside of the case. There were additional horizontal wooden supports added on each of the movement and they were cut enough to allow the cords for the weights to drop without interference, but not enough to allow the weights to be properly wound all the way so that the clock only runs for about 13 hours before needing wound again.
My main interest is in restoring these clocks to operating condition while doing as much as possible to preserve them. I don’t want into returning them to “like new” condition or anything else that might compromise their integrity. I value the opinion of Bob, willofiam, and others so I’d like to know if you think I should remove the pieces that were added to the sides, so that the weights can be more fully wound or if I should leave it as is.
Thanks in advance for any insight you’d be willing to offer.

April 21, 2017 at 7:15 am #64389I think that clock is a 30 hr clock. When the weights are at the top it should run at least 30 hrs. I would like to see a picture of the full inside of the clock with the door open and dial off. I don’t remember for sure but I did one of those clocks several years ago and I don’t remember a seat board like what I can see. So if you could it would help all of us if you could open the door and with no dial take a picture of the inside. I can’t tell for sure from your pictures you post what is what.
April 21, 2017 at 7:22 am #64390Hey jdeunger, difficult to discern your photos, next time try resizing them, I think the photos I have attached are 800 x 450….is this what your referring to? are there any previous holes in the back that would possibly replicate this idea? if so then you can try and find some old cedar or pine to make a new seat board.


April 21, 2017 at 9:10 am #64391Hi William,
Thanks very much for the reply. I couldn’t figure out how to resize the photos in this app but it did it in Paint and hopefully these show it better.But yes, what your’e showing is correct. But on mine, someone had added an extra piece of horizontal wood to both sides of the vertical mounts that holds the seat board. The seat board itself is fine. These extra pieces don’t seem to serving any purpose other than to block the weights from being properly raised all the way in their channels. So my question is should I remove these extraneous pieces (circled in the pictures)?


April 21, 2017 at 9:34 am #64392@Bernie Weishapl wrote:
I think that clock is a 30 hr clock. When the weights are at the top it should run at least 30 hrs. I would like to see a picture of the full inside of the clock with the door open and dial off. I don’t remember for sure but I did one of those clocks several years ago and I don’t remember a seat board like what I can see. So if you could it would help all of us if you could open the door and with no dial take a picture of the inside. I can’t tell for sure from your pictures you post what is what.
Yes Bernie, I believe you’re right that it’s a 30 hour clock, but with the extra horizontal blocks that someone added, the weights only go up to about the level of the seat board. Hopefully this picture is a better representation.
April 21, 2017 at 11:16 am #64393Joe, much better on the pictures, that helps alot….as for removing those pieces a couple of questions I would ask myself….Why did they put them there in the first place? strength? support? holding it all together? or just not thinking it thru? also, what type of damage is possible when removing them? are you opening up a can of worms?….If it were mine I would fully disassemble the case carefully and reconstruct as it should be without ruining the authenticity. The type of glue used on those extra pieces could pose some issues but there are ways to get around that if you can get it apart enough to get at certain areas.
April 21, 2017 at 12:00 pm #64394Thanks very much William. I’ve been asking myself that for days now and all I can come up with is that they must have been trying to strengthen it, although it doesn’t seem to need it. It was really a haphazard change they made, using nails through the outside of the case on both sides and through the vertical support for the movement. I can also see that they did use some glue, which I realize could be a problem. My biggest issue with them in place is that the clock weights only have about 13 hours of time to fall, but as I am presently working at home, I can easily wind it twice a day.

Thanks again.
April 24, 2017 at 7:20 am #64395That is kinda what I was thinking might be your problem. I have two Ogee clocks in for repair and 1 of my own and there is no pieces to restrict the weights from being wound to the top. I agree it was probably did to strengthen the clock case but not sure why.
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