Reply To: Watch Jewels.

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First…. I recommend that you get a copy of the Chicago School of Watchmaking which was (I believe) and distance education course in the 50’s and 60’s. You can get it in hard copy at LuLu or on DVD on eBay which is cheaper. De Carle books are very good too.

Regarding jewels… there are rubbed in jewels (the most difficult to repair), friction fit (not difficult if you have a set of pushers or a staking set), and jewels set in bushings or “bouchons” that are held in place with a couple of screws (the easiest to replace). The simplest of tools that you will need are a set of jewels pushers (for the bouchon jewels) and a micrometer of caliper if you need to measure the outside diameter. You can measure the diameter of the balance staff pinion, add .01mm to the hole size and use that to order a jewel. However, a staking set is an important tool for many purposes. Bob’s videos provide a good guide to jewels.

If you replace the bouchon jewels, they are easy to find and you just need a jewel pusher to put them back in place. Friction fit and rubbed in jewels require a more expensive set of tools (unless you have excellent eyes and a good feel for this). I’m of the opinion that proper jeweling and timing issues are the most complicated things to master… at least for me. But you can start with a cheap tool like the following…

One last thing…. I’ve been working on jeweling for a while and I’m just now getting to the point where I believe that I can handle many of the jeweling issues that I face (except shock absorbing Incablok, etc.). You will find some great experience and comments here that will be superior to mine. However, I feel that we are kindred spirts on this issue. :)

Good luck!

tmac1956Reply To: Watch Jewels.