Hi all, and Hello Tripper: could you give more specifics about the ingrediants you use? Reason: here in Cal. where they try to control every action of all lives, you can find 40%, 60%. 80% potencys of all types of things due to disposal and recycleing regulations. that is: 50% solution and container might go in regular trash, 100% of same might require a trip to the toxic waste site–it’s crazy.
Second Question. Could you give times in solution for various operations? Also, would the times be different if you were doing a batch of hands, or other tiny parts, as opposed to plates and large bridges? If so, could you give some ideas as to times. Any one else: please jump in. Thanks for all your help folks………………………….b
Yes here in lovely California, we regular people can’t have proper chemicals like naphtha and mineral spirits as it may be hazardous to someone or something. Here in California we can not get film developed any longer either because of chemicals involved. Here in California, life for people who “get it done” is hard because of all those who don’t……
In answer to your first question, all of the mentioned cleaning supplies are still available here in California…I do NOT expect them to be available forever though as someone will want them banned for whatever reason so I suggest that you stock up.
Percentages….That’s a tough one at least for the ammonia. I am using extra strength household ammonia. The brand is 2force. From the website listed on the bottle: http://www.champakinc.com/pdf/ammonia/sunbrite_ammonia.pdf
it states Sunbrite ammonia (I believe it is the same as the 2force package that I have) is composed of Ammonia Hydroxide 4.0% by weight. I am guessing that this is not as strong as what Bob mixes in the videos, but it does get the job done.
Now here I must admit that I am not a chemist so I do not know what the actual percentages in this formula are, but I can tell you that this mix works great for me.
As for Time In Solution for parts to soak, depends on if you pre-cleaned major grease off the plates, how tarnished, etc. Also as the solution gets older, it takes a bit longer, but it still works.
The last clock I cleaned took about 30min. And the used solution in the photo has had nine clocks of varying degrees of grease/oil/dirt on them put into it. as I said, the last one took about 30min. I plan on using that cleaner til it cleans no more…
What I do:
Put the parts in a container as shown.(container from dollar tree here in calif.)
Add the cleaning solution so that it covers the parts (You can flip parts of course if they stick out, OR get a deeper container)
Let them soak for about 10 min. Remove each part and brush. Place back in solution if not bright enough for another 10min. Check parts, if not bright enough back in they go etc. (Lather, Rinse, Repeat…you get the idea.)
When done, for clocks, using an identical container, I rinse under hot tap water letting the water over flow the container and dropping the parts in the container. BE CAREFUL HERE and do not let parts go down drain. Only takes a minute to rinse…
My clock instructor uses a enameled double boiler setup(Pot with strainer in it) and after water rinse, dunks parts in pot filled with denatured alcohol to remove water.
For watches, shake off as much cleaning solution as possible then I rinse using LR #3 Watch rinse (naphtha and mineral spirits) (I have a mechanical cleaning machine now so I don’t do watches by hand as much)
For BOTH clocks and watches, DRY THOROUGHLY with you trusty thrift store hair dryer (or in oven place parts on cookie sheet at 200 deg) until dry.
As for disposal of used cleaner, with the exception of the acetone, all chemicals used are of the household variety. That being said please don’t dump them in the river. I think a bag of kitty litter would come in handy to soak up used cleaner. Check you local landfill/recycle as they can help you decide how to dispose of your used cleaning supplies.
I hope this helps !